The south face of South Rock.
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Several quality routes of "moderate" difficulty (5.8 to 5.11-) ascend this prominent formation.
South Rock is the first rock encountered walking north from the parking area.
You can rappel down either the north or the south side rappels with a single 60m rope (~28m rappel for either way).
A nasty walkoff/downclimb exists on the east end of the rock (don't do it).
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
12 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in South Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Rock:
Yikes Dikes 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Featured Route For South Rock
Airy Scary 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
: Taos Area
: ... : South Rock
The name says it all. (Although it originally had no name.)Start below a small triangular roof, pull up to a solid-looking 1/4" bolt. Face climb up to a roof (pro in crack) and traverse right on solid flakes, or take a more direct line with scarcer pro, to a roof below a piton. Turn the roof which is surprisingly easy and protects well with a nut. From the piton to the next bolt up and right is the technical but well-protected crux with off-balance moves (AIRY!). Up from here past a 2nd pit...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Aug 15, 2011
Can use the easy-to-find anchors at the top of Surface Tension to rap off the NW end of South Rock into a slot / gully with a HUGE chockstone. A 70 meter rope can get you just downhill of the chockstone. The description of Surface Tension reports that a 60 meter will just make it being careful first to find the center of the rope - watch your ends! - probably lands you uphill of the HUGE chockstone after which it appears you can tunnel around the chockstone if that's the direction you are heading.
By Steven Reneau
May 17, 2014
Active peregrine falcon nest very close to shared anchors for unknown South Face Middle and South Face Right routes. Birds got very agitated today when a climber topped out. Please avoid these routes through the nesting season (into August).