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South Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange T 
Airy Scary T 
Alias The Martian T 
Eagle's Nest T 
Eagle's Nest (original) T 
Rainy Daze  S 
Surface Tension T 
Unknown (South Face Left) T 
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 
Unknown (South Face Right) T 
Yikes Dikes T 
Zig Zag Man T 

South Rock Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Jul 14, 2007


34° | 8°

37° | 9°

41° | 11°

42° | 15°

38° | 12°
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>


Several quality routes of "moderate" difficulty (5.8 to 5.11-) ascend this prominent formation.

Getting There 

South Rock is the first rock encountered walking north from the parking area.


You can rappel down either the north or the south side rappels with a single 60m rope (~28m rappel for either way).
A nasty walkoff/downclimb exists on the east end of the rock (don't do it).

Climbing Season

For the Tres Piedras area.

Weather station 1.1 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Rock:
Yikes Dikes   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Zig Zag Man   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
Unknown (South Face Right)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Alias The Martian   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Unknown (South Face Left)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Surface Tension   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Rock

Featured Route For South Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Route from the base

Unknown (South Face Left) 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  NM : Taos Area : ... : South Rock
Start by scrambling up a little to the right of the top of the big detached block. Protect with nuts in the back, a move that turns out easier than it looks as ledges appear gains the first bolt. Angle up and left, passing a couple small bulges to reach a big roof with a bolt right at the lip. Figure out how to reach the giant exit chickenhead, and cruise on up to the chains.This climb has fun moves on good rock, and bolts in the right places. Don't get scared off by the TP reputation for ru...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on South Rock Add Comment
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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Aug 15, 2011
Can use the easy-to-find anchors at the top of Surface Tension to rap off the NW end of South Rock into a slot / gully with a HUGE chockstone. A 70 meter rope can get you just downhill of the chockstone. The description of Surface Tension reports that a 60 meter will just make it being careful first to find the center of the rope - watch your ends! - probably lands you uphill of the HUGE chockstone after which it appears you can tunnel around the chockstone if that's the direction you are heading.
By Steven Reneau
May 17, 2014
Active peregrine falcon nest very close to shared anchors for unknown South Face Middle and South Face Right routes. Birds got very agitated today when a climber topped out. Please avoid these routes through the nesting season (into August).

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