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South Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange T 
Airy Scary T 
Alias The Martian T 
Eagle's Nest T 
Eagle's Nest (original) T 
Rainy Daze  S 
Surface Tension T 
Unknown (South Face Left) T 
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 
Unknown (South Face Right) T 
Yikes Dikes T 
Zig Zag Man T 

South Rock  


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Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Jul 14, 2007
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Several quality routes of "moderate" difficulty (5.8 to 5.11-) ascend this prominent formation.

Getting There 

South Rock is the first rock encountered walking north from the parking area.

Descent 

You can rappel down either the north or the south side rappels with a single 60m rope (~28m rappel for either way).
A nasty walkoff/downclimb exists on the east end of the rock (don't do it).

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.1 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Rock:
Yikes Dikes   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Unknown (South Face Right)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Zig Zag Man   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
Alias The Martian   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Unknown (South Face Left)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Surface Tension   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Browse More Classics in South Rock

Featured Route For South Rock
Climber summiting Yikes Dikes.  Photo courtesy of ...

Yikes Dikes 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NM : Taos Area : ... : South Rock
Area classic! Climb straight up and over the left side of the short bisected buttress above resembling two heads (ala Easter Island) or more simply... a butt. While a belay can be set up below the buttress, the route can be done easily in 1 pitch with a 60m rope....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on South Rock Add Comment
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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Aug 15, 2011
Can use the easy-to-find anchors at the top of Surface Tension to rap off the NW end of South Rock into a slot / gully with a HUGE chockstone. A 70 meter rope can get you just downhill of the chockstone. The description of Surface Tension reports that a 60 meter will just make it being careful first to find the center of the rope - watch your ends! - probably lands you uphill of the HUGE chockstone after which it appears you can tunnel around the chockstone if that's the direction you are heading.
By Steven Reneau
May 17, 2014
Active peregrine falcon nest very close to shared anchors for unknown South Face Middle and South Face Right routes. Birds got very agitated today when a climber topped out. Please avoid these routes through the nesting season (into August).