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 ADVANCED
Main Rock
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Access Route T 
Handcrack T,TR 
Major Groove T,TR 
Minor Groove T,TR 
Rappel Route TR 
South Ridge T 
When Free Climbers Wore Hammers T 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 193
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Aug 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Getting ready to rap off the South Ridge. The cli...

Description 

South Ridge starts from a grass ledge and climbs a low angled face to a block. It is one of two routes used to access the anchors on top of Main Rock. The protection is sparse, and generally pretty poor, and the rock is loose and dirty in some areas.

From the ledge, climb up low angle slabs to a block. Climb around the right side of the block to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge to a prominent pinnacle. We ended up rapping from the pinnacle, but you can also choose to continue to the summit.

Location 

As you approach Main Rock, follow the sandy trail to the left and down around a buttress. Walk up the grassy ledge around the corner, and look for a sharp pinnacle at the top.

Protection 

Like rack, small to medium gear. You can rap from the pinnacle half way up, or from a pair of bolts at the top.


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By TobinPetty
From: Nampa, ID
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

I agree with Steve's assessment of this climb. It is runout, the protection was marginal and there are some gritty sections covered in black lichen. Nevertheless, I tended to enjoy the route for its' 'mountaineering' type feel; there are some positions of exposure and some committing moves over runout and poorly protected terrain. I continued to the top of the climb past the aforementioned horn like pinnacle about 20-25 ft from the top. Do not let the rating fool you, this is a climb that would meet old school criteria for a serious lead. Having said that- get on it! Climb safe~