|54 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.10a/b [details]|
|FA: ||H Baechli, A Horrisberger|
|Season: ||Spring through autumn|
|Submitted By: ||Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011|
The clean third pitch of the South Pillar (5b)
A moderate yet very interesting "semi-trad" route with highly varied climbing.
Pitches go at 5c+, 5b, 5b, 5b, 6a+, 6a+, 5b, 5b.
In the upper half of the first pitch and early in the second, two newer routes cross the South Pillar route from the left. Don't be tempted by the bolts - continue left towards the unmistakable chimney / corner system. In the fourth pitch, which ascends the corner, there is a bolted variation on the face to the left (6a+). At the belay after the fifth pitch, head up and to the right over a bulge (bolted) - do not follow the massively overhanging bolted line to the left (a 7b+ variation).
Consult the plaisir-ost guidebook for a topo.
True to its name, the route ascends and obvious pillar roughly in the middle of the wall. However, it begins further to the right, on a fairly steep, slabby face, just to the right of a large block at the base.
It is possible to descend by abseil, but advisable to descend by foot when others are climbing. To descend by foot, head west after topping out on a small footpath. The path leads back around to the south slope and along the base of the wall.
All anchors are bolted (single muni-rings), and there are bolts where no gear placements are possible (in particular the slabby crux sections, which are well bolted). A moderate assortment of cams and stoppers should be brought along to supplement what is there.
The clean second pitch of the South Pillar (5b)
Pitch one of the South Pillar (5c+)
Pitch five of the South Pillar