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South Pillar

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Rain S 
Jungle of Stone T,S 
Sleeping Beauty Girdle T 
Water Spirit T 

South Pillar Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.99607, -105.41633 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,030
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Eagle Rock remains closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The South Pillar is on the far left side of Sleeping Beauty. There are one pure sport routes here (Black Rain); the rest of the routes require gear. All routes have two-bolt anchors at the top.

Eds. for the purposes of better organization, we'll separate the climbs that go onto the main wall, right of the obvious gully onto the Main Wall page.

L->R:

A1. Jungle of Stone, 9, 1p, 115', gear & bolts. RFC to roof.
A2. Sleeping Beauty Girdle, 3p, 420', gear & bolts. Start on A & traverse R across cliff.
B. Black Rain, 10, 1p, 115', bolts. Black water streak.
C. Water Spirit, 10, 1p, 90', gear & bolts. Crack through black roof.

Getting There 

Hike the trail along the base of Sleeping Beauty to a series of vegetated ledges on the left side. After the scramble up to the left edge of Ledge 2, walk left a short distance and step up onto some blocks. Cut back right past the right side of a horizontal dead tree to a nice alcove with a large tree.

Look for a right-facing corner with a nice hand crack that leads to a small bulge/roof with a single bolt at the start. This is Jungle of Stone. To the right of this corner is a dark black streak on a slab with bolts (Black Rain 10b).

Climbing Season

For the Sleeping Beauty area.

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Pillar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Pillar:
Black Rain   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Pillar

Featured Route For South Pillar
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Conner starting up the hand crack.  The crux...

Jungle of Stone 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : South Pillar
This is a great climb on the far left side of Sleeping Beauty. To locate the start, hike the trail along the base to a series of vegetated ledges on the left side. You will scramble back up and to the right to the start of the climb. Look for a right-facing corner with a nice, hand crack that leads to a small bulge/roof with a single bolt at the start. This is Jungle of Stone. To the right of this corner is a dark black streak on a slab with bolts (Black Rain 10b). Start right ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on South Pillar Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 21, 2006
A 70m rope is seriously helpful for the South Pillar climbs. A 60m is mandatory and tying in to the end is mandatory if you're going to lower the leader rather than rappel. With a 60m, if you belay Jungle of Stone or Black Rain from the tree at the left, the leader will NOT reach the ground if you lower with a 60m, not even by swinging far right. The second will need to climb up as the leader lowers the last 15' or so. If you belay the climbs on the right from high up on the right side of the slab, you can just barely lower the leader.

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