South Peak - West Face Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: (Not my image) Selected routes on the South Peak -...
The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr.
(5.4), Triple S
(5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route
(5.2) and Thais
To descend the west face there are two major rappel stations. The first is from the tree at the top of Conn's West
. 1. Rappel from the tree to a set of rap hangers near a tree on Conn's West
. (50ft) 2. From there you can rappel to a large ledge with a tree to the north. (65ft) 3. Behind this tree are rap anchors to the base of Old Man's Route
As of 2016, there are 2 additional descent options for the West Face: a set of anchors just north of the summit that rappel over Pleasant Overhangs, and a set of anchors north on the same ledge as the Conn's West rappel that descend over Westpole (double rope rappel!!).
The second rappel is from the Traffic Jam
notch. Anchors are located around the corner to the south from the notch. 1. Rappel from these anchors to the top of Neck Press (45ft). 2. Rappel from Neck Press to another set of anchors. (65ft) 3. Rappel the remaining length to the ground. (70ft)
Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn
and Ecstasy Junior
To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route
, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
79 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',44],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in South Peak - West Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Peak - West Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Peak - West Face:
Conn's West 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Le Gourmet 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 4 pitches, 285'
Front C 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
West Pole 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
The Burn 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Triple S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Sidewinder 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Featured Route For South Peak - West Face
Traffic Jam 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WV
: Seneca Rocks
: South Peak - West Face
The obvious crack system in Traffic Jam notch. Since the notch is usally full of people rapping off this can be a difficult climb to get on, becasue you belayer will be creating a Traffic Jam on the rap.The back wall is most certiainly off (no stemming) and going around the corner halfway is supposed to be cheating too.You can walk off by continuing north along the small ridge. You may want a a belay though....[more] Browse More Classics in WV
Enjoying the view from the top!
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the West face of the South Peak
BETA PHOTO: More Routes on the west face of the South Peak
Enjoying the summit register
Crowded day on top of the South Peak. (Looking so...
Some of the Seneca Sevens (left to right): Green W...
BETA PHOTO: Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak
BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...
Maggie on her first summit
Face of a Thousand Pitons, Seneca Rocks, WV.
Mike on top of the South Peak.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 12, 2014
There is a 3rd rap station down the west face. You MUST have TWO 60m ropes to do this rappel to the ground. From the summit blocks, located the anchors just down over the west face (they're right around where the routes Green Wall and Pleasant Overhangs top out). Rap from these down to another set of rap anchors above the large Pleasant Overhangs wall. Rap from this second set to the ground. You'll basically be rapping on the line of Arrested Mental Development.