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South Peak - West Face
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Select Route:
The Balle ss Boltchoppers 
Agony 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' 
Back to the Front 
Banana 
Black Mamba 
Blackbird 
Breakneck 
Bring on the Nubiles 
Broken Neck 
Burn, The 
Burning Tendons 
Cast of Thousands 
Casual In The Mind's Eye 
Clarke's Climb 
Cockfight 
Conn's West 
Cottonmouth - Venom 
Crispy Critter 
Critter Crack 
Crusher Critter 
Debbie 
Easy Over 
Ecstasy Junior 
Front C 
Green Wall 
Gunsight to South Peak 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct 
Humphrey's Head 
Le Gourmet 
Le Gourmet Direct 
Lox 
Manual Dexterity 
Marshall's Madness 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn 
Monkey See Monkey Do 
Neck Press 
Old Ladies Route 
Old Man's Route 
Pedro's Problem 
Pleasant Overhangs 
Prune 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) 
Sidewinder 
So What 
Sunshine 
Thais 
Thais Direct 
Tomato 
Traffic Jam 
Triple S 
West Pole 

South Peak - West Face 


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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Sep 19, 2006

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Some of the Seneca Sevens (left to right): Green W...

Description 

The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5).

To descend the west face there are two major rappel stations. The first is from the tree at the top of Conn's West/West Pole. 1. Rappel from the tree to a set of rap hangers near a tree on Conn's West. (50ft) 2. From there you can rappel to a large ledge with a tree to the north. (65ft) 3. Behind this tree are rap anchors to the base of Old Man's Route. (70ft)

The second rappel is from the Traffic Jam notch. Anchors are located around the corner to the south from the notch. 1. Rappel from these anchors to the top of Neck Press (45ft). 2. Rappel from Neck Press to another set of anchors. (65ft) 3. Rappel the remaining length to the ground. (70ft)


Getting There 

Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Peak - West Face:
Old Man's Route   5.2     Trad, 3 pitches   
Gunsight to South Peak   5.3     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   
Conn's West   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Gunsight to South Peak Direct   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   
Ecstasy Junior   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet   
Critter Crack   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Traffic Jam   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Green Wall   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches   
Pleasant Overhangs   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches   
Prune   5.7+     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
West Pole   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   
Tomato   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 155 feet   
The Burn   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   
Triple S   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet   
Back to the Front   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Bring on the Nubiles   5.9+ PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Cottonmouth - Venom   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Sidewinder   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   
Black Mamba   5.12a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet   
Browse More Classics in South Peak - West Face

Featured Route For South Peak - West Face
Cottonmouth pitch. October '07. Photo: Patrick McCarthy.

Cottonmouth - Venom 5.10b  WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face
Two separate routes that when linked together make for a classic outing. Begin on the Snake Face just left of the arete formed by it and the Face of a Thousand Pitons. P1: Climb the steep corners up to a nice ledge at a bolted anchor.P2: Step off the belay and climb the right-facing flake up until reaching a thin crack out left. Follow this up past a dirty face to the top of the wall....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV


Photos of South Peak - West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Routes on the West face of the South Peak

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the West face of the South Peak

More Routes on the west face of the South Peak

BETA PHOTO: More Routes on the west face of the South Peak

Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak

BETA PHOTO: Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak

Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Route.

BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...

Face of a Thousand Pitons, Seneca Rocks, WV. <br /> <br />

Face of a Thousand Pitons, Seneca Rocks, WV.



Mike on top of the South Peak.

Mike on top of the South Peak.

(Not my image) <br />Selected routes on the South Peak - West Face.

BETA PHOTO: (Not my image)
Selected routes on the South Peak -...


Crowded day on top of the South Peak.  (Looking south from the top of Gunsight to South Peak

Crowded day on top of the South Peak. (Looking so...

Maggie on her first summit

Maggie on her first summit

Enjoying the summit register

Enjoying the summit register

Snake face

BETA PHOTO: Snake face

Enjoying the view from the top!

Enjoying the view from the top!