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The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5).
Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S).
54 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in South Peak - West Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Peak - West Face:
Old Man's Route 5.2 3 8 II D 2c Trad, 3 pitches
Gunsight to South Peak 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Conn's West 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Ecstasy Junior 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Gunsight to South Peak Direct 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Le Gourmet 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c Trad, 4 pitches, 285'
Critter Crack 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Traffic Jam 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Pleasant Overhangs 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches
Green Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches
Prune 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
West Pole 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Tomato 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 155'
The Burn 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Triple S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Back to the Front 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Bring on the Nubiles 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Cottonmouth - Venom 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Sidewinder 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Featured Route For South Peak - West Face
Traffic Jam 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face
The obvious crack system in Traffic Jam notch. Since the notch is usally full of people rapping off this can be a difficult climb to get on, becasue you belayer will be creating a Traffic Jam on the rap.The back wall is most certiainly off (no stemming) and going around the corner halfway is supposed to be cheating too.You can walk off by continuing north along the small ridge. You may want a a belay though....[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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