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DescriptionThe west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5). Getting TherePark near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S). The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Peak - West Face:
Old Man's Route 5.2 Trad, 3 pitches
Gunsight to South Peak 5.3 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Conn's West 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Gunsight to South Peak Direct 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Ecstasy Junior 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet
Critter Crack 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Traffic Jam 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Green Wall 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches
Pleasant Overhangs 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches
Prune 5.7+ Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
West Pole 5.7+ Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet
Tomato 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 155 feet
The Burn 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Triple S 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet
Back to the Front 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Bring on the Nubiles 5.9+ PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Cottonmouth - Venom 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Sidewinder 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet
Black Mamba 5.12a PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet
Featured Route For South Peak - West Face
Cottonmouth - Venom 5.10b WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face
Two separate routes that when linked together make for a classic outing. Begin on the Snake Face just left of the arete formed by it and the Face of a Thousand Pitons. P1: Climb the steep corners up to a nice ledge at a bolted anchor.P2: Step off the belay and climb the right-facing flake up until reaching a thin crack out left. Follow this up past a dirty face to the top of the wall....[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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