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South Peak - West Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
NOVA T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

South Peak - West Face Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.83453, -79.36677 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 34,737
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Sep 19, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: (Not my image) Selected routes on the South Peak -...

Description 

The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5).

To descend the west face there are two major rappel stations. The first is from the tree at the top of Conn's West/West Pole. 1. Rappel from the tree to a set of rap hangers near a tree on Conn's West. (50ft) 2. From there you can rappel to a large ledge with a tree to the north. (65ft) 3. Behind this tree are rap anchors to the base of Old Man's Route. (70ft)

The second rappel is from the Traffic Jam notch. Anchors are located around the corner to the south from the notch. 1. Rappel from these anchors to the top of Neck Press (45ft). 2. Rappel from Neck Press to another set of anchors. (65ft) 3. Rappel the remaining length to the ground. (70ft)

Getting There 

Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S).

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.2 miles from here

79 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',47],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',26],['5.7',12],['5.8',11],['5.9',13],['5.10',14],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Peak - West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Peak - West Face:
Old Man's Route   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Gunsight to South Peak   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Gunsight to South Peak Direct   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Conn's West   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Ecstasy Junior   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Le Gourmet   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 4 pitches, 285'   
Front C   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Critter Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Traffic Jam   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Green Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Pleasant Overhangs   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
West Pole   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
The Burn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Triple S   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   
Back to the Front   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Marshall's Madness   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 165'   
Bring on the Nubiles   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Cottonmouth - Venom   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Sidewinder   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Peak - West Face

Featured Route For South Peak - West Face
Rock Climbing Photo: just below the business on Agony

Agony 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face
Agony is the appealing crack line sandwiched between Triple S and Crack of Dawn. Commonly done in two pitches but best as a single rope-stretcher. Climb the face up to the crack, follow this through the overhand and into the chimney. Belay here or follow the easier chimney to the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of South Peak - West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the view from the top!
Enjoying the view from the top!
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on the West face of the South Peak
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the West face of the South Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: More Routes on the west face of the South Peak
BETA PHOTO: More Routes on the west face of the South Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the summit register
Enjoying the summit register
Rock Climbing Photo: Crowded day on top of the South Peak.  (Looking so...
Crowded day on top of the South Peak. (Looking so...
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the Seneca Sevens (left to right): Green W...
Some of the Seneca Sevens (left to right): Green W...
Rock Climbing Photo: Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak
BETA PHOTO: Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...
BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Maggie on her first summit
Maggie on her first summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Face of a Thousand Pitons, Seneca Rocks, WV.
Face of a Thousand Pitons, Seneca Rocks, WV.
Rock Climbing Photo: Snake face
BETA PHOTO: Snake face
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike on top of the South Peak.
Mike on top of the South Peak.

Comments on South Peak - West Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 12, 2014
There is a 3rd rap station down the west face. You MUST have TWO 60m ropes to do this rappel to the ground. From the summit blocks, located the anchors just down over the west face (they're right around where the routes Green Wall and Pleasant Overhangs top out). Rap from these down to another set of rap anchors above the large Pleasant Overhangs wall. Rap from this second set to the ground. You'll basically be rapping on the line of Arrested Mental Development.

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