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South Peak - East Face 


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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006

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The East face of Seneca

Description 

The south side of Seneca faces away from route 33 and is considerably quieter. There is little shade and with the right weather it can be climbable year round.


Getting There 

The east face of the south peak can be approached three ways: you can hike up the east face trail from Roy Gap Road, you can climb up one of several routes on the southern end, or the east face can be reached by scrambling around luncheon ledge on the south end of the formation. This scramble involves several forth class sections and has been the site of several fatalities.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Peak - East Face:
Windy Corner   5.4     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Upper Broadway
Dirty Old Man   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 155 feet   Upper Broadway
R & R   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet   Southeast Corner
Conn's East   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Upper Broadway
Soler   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Upper Broadway
Bee Sting Corner   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Southeast Corner
Dufty's Popoff   5.7+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   Southeast Corner
Conn's East Direct   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Upper Broadway
Alcoa Presents   5.8     Trad, 50 feet   Upper Broadway
Frosted Flake   5.9     Trad, 100 feet   Upper Broadway
High Test   5.9+     Trad, 120 feet   Upper Broadway
Pollux   5.10a     Trad, 45 feet   Upper Broadway
Castor   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Upper Broadway
Hidden Assets   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Broadway
Orangeaid   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Upper Broadway
Nip and Tuck   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 125 feet   Upper Broadway
Spock's Brain   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Upper Broadway
Low Octane   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Upper Broadway
Terra Firma Homesick Blues   5.11 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Upper Broadway
The Changling   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Upper Broadway
Browse More Classics in South Peak - East Face

Featured Route For South Peak - East Face
Castor. October '07.

Castor 5.10a  WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Upper Broadway
According to the guide book the crux is in the first 15 feet. That being said the next 30 feet or so is not easy either.The routes goes up a nice finger/hand crack for about 45 feet. After the large ledge the route contiunes up a right facing corner (5.8?) finishing on the Conn's East Ledge (Below Alcoa Presents)....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV


Photos of South Peak - East Face Slideshow Add Photo
South Peak, West Face from the top of Where Real Men Dare. Summer '96.

South Peak, West Face from the top of Where Real M...

Upper Broadway Approach.  Don't slip.

Upper Broadway Approach. Don't slip.