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DescriptionThe south side of Seneca faces away from route 33 and is considerably quieter. There is little shade and with the right weather it can be climbable year round. Getting ThereThe east face of the south peak can be approached three ways: you can hike up the east face trail from Roy Gap Road, you can climb up one of several routes on the southern end, or the east face can be reached by scrambling around luncheon ledge on the south end of the formation. This scramble involves several forth class sections and has been the site of several fatalities. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Peak - East Face:
Windy Corner 5.4 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Upper Broadway
Dirty Old Man 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 155 feet Upper Broadway
R & R 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet Southeast Corner
Conn's East 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Upper Broadway
Soler 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Upper Broadway
Bee Sting Corner 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Southeast Corner
Dufty's Popoff 5.7+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Southeast Corner
Conn's East Direct 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Upper Broadway
Alcoa Presents 5.8 Trad, 50 feet Upper Broadway
Frosted Flake 5.9 Trad, 100 feet Upper Broadway
High Test 5.9+ Trad, 120 feet Upper Broadway
Pollux 5.10a Trad, 45 feet Upper Broadway
Castor 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Upper Broadway
Hidden Assets 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch Upper Broadway
Orangeaid 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Upper Broadway
Nip and Tuck 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 125 feet Upper Broadway
Spock's Brain 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Upper Broadway
Low Octane 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet Upper Broadway
Terra Firma Homesick Blues 5.11 PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Upper Broadway
The Changling 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Upper Broadway
Featured Route For South Peak - East Face
Castor 5.10a WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Upper Broadway
According to the guide book the crux is in the first 15 feet. That being said the next 30 feet or so is not easy either.The routes goes up a nice finger/hand crack for about 45 feet. After the large ledge the route contiunes up a right facing corner (5.8?) finishing on the Conn's East Ledge (Below Alcoa Presents)....[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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