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Pratt's Crack / Dihedrals Area
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Eclipsed S 
Friendly Faces Everywhere T 
Pratt's Crack T 
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Rites of Spring T 
Sheila T 
South Park T 
Unsorted Routes:

South Park 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,064
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Jan 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Great long crack and face climb with a tenuous 5.11 crux that is so much more fun if you just yard on the 3rd bolt. With that single point of aid, the climb is a super fun, varied 5.9/10a. Note: the 2nd bolt is not really needed now, but on the ground-up FA, this bolt was placed from a sloper that turned out to be the top of a lodged block that we trundled, leaving a bomber jug and a far easier mantle. If you clip it, then once the 3rd is clipped, unclip the 2nd to reduce rope drag.

Location 

Around the arete left of the left start of Rites of Spring, climb a corner past a bush for 40' until you can make a fingertip traverse right (huge stem if you're tall) to a flake hand crack. Take this to a bolt, move right (hidden bolt), mantle to 3rd bolt. Yard on this to a huge edge, and take the ever-widening crack to the top.

Protection 

Pro to 3.5", 3 bolts, double pro 1-3". Include thin cams. 2-bolt anchor with Mussy hooks, rap twice with single 60m rope (to the anchor of Friendly Faces Everywhere). An optional 4.5" piece can be used near the top.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 5, 2007

If this route goes all free shouldn't the rating reflect that with a note you can "yard on the 3rd bolt" to make it 5.9+ AO, especially since 5.11 isn't so difficult (relatively speaking)?
By Neil Kauffman
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is a great route! Needs a little more traffic to clean up some exfoliation and veg, but definitely worthy.
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Aug 28, 2011

Is there a second pitch to this climb? I recall seeing some bolts up an arete to the left of the anchor. I think a couple of the bolts might have been missing hangers.
By rickziegler
Sep 27, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Good crack climbing with a tricky face crux. I'm suprised this doesn't get climbed more.
By Morgan Nutting
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I don't know why you'd wanna skip the crux move, I think that's the most exciting part of the route. Fun dyno in between good crack climbing.
By Vlad S
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Pretty awesome route with a fairly unique crux for the area. Beware, a 70 m rope won't get you all the way down to the base, although it's possible to rap and downclimb the last easy 15 feet.