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South America
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazon Woman T 
Charlie Manson Look Alike Contest S 
L.A. Woman S 
Open Project S 
South Africa T 
South Pacific T 
Woman In Bondage S 

South Pacific 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Lowell & Sterns 1973
Page Views: 1,351
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Dan Schuerch on South Pacific starting ledge.

Description 

Crux is the top 3' arm crack. This can be skipped though and the crack used to build the trad anchor.

Location 

Left of Amazon Woman and South Africa. Follow the line of least resistance by the coast of South America, but stay left or else you'll end up on South Africa. Ends either at the arm chimney or on top of it. I recommend to belay the second from here and then rap/climb to Amazon Woman anchors. Its really an easy 5th class traverse, but you want to be roped up!

Protection 

All types: small nuts to large cams. Can get away with nothing larger than a #3 camalot.


Comments on South Pacific Add Comment
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By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I recommend putting a #4 Camalot or a Large Supercam under the overlap at the top of the beginning slab. Then you can more comfortably fiddle with a nut in the crack above the inverted V in the first overlap. Definitely a mini-crux stepping up on that first overlap.
By Henry Holub
From: Altus, Ok
Nov 6, 2015

I agree with Stan's comment about the first overlap... I was very new to climbing and pumped out, but it definitely stopped me my first go-round
By Herndon
Jan 17, 2016

This is one of the easy classics at Quartz. Climb up the inverted V to the finger crack and put in pro. The crux is then traversing a few moves to the left. You can get a bomber hand jam and then toss your left foot up. I would call the move solid for 5.7. A must do.

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