Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Wheeler Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aha! S 
Aquaphobia S 
Bean S 
Bitch Free Zone S 
Blush S 
Boom Boy S 
Cobble Climb S 
Cruiser S 
Crystal Pools S 
Danger Boy S 
Economique S 
Exodus S 
Ezra S 
Goulara S 
Gridlock S 
Irie Girl S 
It Is It S 
Little Buckaroo S 
Lost Trout S 
Ojai Urinal  S 
Riparian Daydream S 
Ripple Rider S 
Roadside Distraction S 
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 
Sick Boy S 
Silent Mind S 
South of the Trout Farm S 
Stolen From Mike S 
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 
Velocity Boy S 
Water Boy S 
Wheel, The T 

South of the Trout Farm 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gould, Agulara
Page Views: 2,920
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
South of the Trout Farm, at Wheeler Gorge

Description 

Smooth, solid rock with a thin crux section near the top. Face climbing on small edges. The first clip is fairly high, but the climbing to it is easier than the rest of the climb.

The location is beautiful.

South of the Trout Farm is found on the inside of the first corner of the gorge after the first bridge (coming from the parking northeast on Hwy 33). It will be across the creek from you as you round the corner.

Protection 

5 bolts, 2 Supershuts for an anchor.


Photos of South of the Trout Farm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Saw this little guy hanging out at the base of Sou...
Saw this little guy hanging out at the base of Sou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Collar on South of the Trout Farm
Mark Collar on South of the Trout Farm
Rock Climbing Photo: The lone shut and snapped bolt from the top of Sou...
The lone shut and snapped bolt from the top of Sou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eugenia enters the crux sequence of South of the T...
Eugenia enters the crux sequence of South of the T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark & Linda Patterson enjoying the ever-stunning ...
Mark & Linda Patterson enjoying the ever-stunning ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Perin Blanchard just before the crux on South of t...
Perin Blanchard just before the crux on South of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: South of the Trout Farm on the day after Thanksgiv...
South of the Trout Farm on the day after Thanksgiv...

Comments on South of the Trout Farm Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 23, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of the few routes at Wheeler that feels stiff for the grade. I'd call it solid 10a, compared to the other routes nearby. In other words, this routes feels a solid grade harder than Cruiser or Ezra. Nonetheless, the crux is short and very well protected.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 26, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Top anchor consists of 2 shiny new 1/2" Rawls with Fixe Supershuts (so nice!).

Special thanks to Erik Anderson.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2009

FA: Mike Gould (solo), Gould & Agulara, 1996.
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 16, 2011

Careful of the loose rock after the crux where some good right hands are.

edit: careful of loose rock in various parts actually. Easy to avoid, though.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Jul 19, 2016

On Sunday I noticed a new line of bolts just left of Trout Farm, and gave the rig a go to see what it's all about. I do think it may have been possible to bolt an independent line, to the left, but the new line does share a bolt with Trout Farm. And the new low bolt will likely change the way people climb Trout Farm as it can be clipped to avoid the unprotected start. The anchors also include a set of rings which are absolutely unfit for climbing applications; they are a nearly spaghetti-thin, hardware store variety. I lowered off the quick links they are attached to instead.

I'm a bit surprised to see a new line squeezing on a very popular route here. We really just addressed this issue down the creek. It's my hope that in the future we can understand and agree, as a community, as to what constitutes responsible bolting here at Wheeler. I'd also encourage would-be FA'ists to stand behind your work, post your routes, and not to bolt anonymously in such a popular zone.

Don't hesitate to contact me directly with questions regarding hardware and other issues; I'm happy to help out and contribute what I can.
By DMonti
Jul 23, 2016

I climbed south of the trout farm and I as well saw the new climb to the left. Gave it a go and thought it was great. No claim on the route? Weird. I'll call it "phantom"... :)
By Monika Rostocki
From: Ojai CA
Aug 5, 2016

We just climbed the new route to the left of Trout (not sure of the name so I'm posting here) after hearing about it from a friend. It's an interesting route with a fun, tricky little crux! Not difficult but definitely makes you think with it's reachy clips and side-step moves.

One thing: I don't know enough about hardware to be an expert, but the rings on the anchor are TINY. When we topped out, we opted against using this anchor and traversed over to Trout Farm. I would recommend keeping this route up, but someone with some hardware experience and a spare 3-4 dollars should go up there and change those out!

Cheers.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Aug 9, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Bunk rings
Bunk rings


Aside from being very thin, these rings have not been welded into a closed loop. They are actually ajar at the connection, and produce a sharp, rope-damaging edge. Safe and proper hardware is rule #1.

I encourage people to contact me if they have any questions. I think new routes at Wheeler are great, Odgers and Becchio have done a fine job contributing new routes recently. But if you aren't sure, don't just bolt it and leave us with a couple shower curtain rings.

Hopefully the community in general can understand to discourage this kind of thing. When bolting on public land, we should be doing our absolute best.

And... in general, I also hope we can work together to foster a positive atmosphere that is aligned with the fun and free spirited nature of climbing.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!