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Wheeler Gorge
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South of the Trout Farm 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gould, Agulara
Page Views: 2,645
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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South of the Trout Farm, at Wheeler Gorge

Description 

Smooth, solid rock with a thin crux section near the top. Face climbing on small edges. The first clip is fairly high, but the climbing to it is easier than the rest of the climb.

The location is beautiful.

South of the Trout Farm is found on the inside of the first corner of the gorge after the first bridge (coming from the parking northeast on Hwy 33). It will be across the creek from you as you round the corner.

Protection 

5 bolts, 2 Supershuts for an anchor.


Photos of South of the Trout Farm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Saw this little guy hanging out at the base of Sou...
Saw this little guy hanging out at the base of Sou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Perin Blanchard just before the crux on South of t...
Perin Blanchard just before the crux on South of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark & Linda Patterson enjoying the ever-stunning ...
Mark & Linda Patterson enjoying the ever-stunning ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The lone shut and snapped bolt from the top of Sou...
The lone shut and snapped bolt from the top of Sou...
Rock Climbing Photo: South of the Trout Farm on the day after Thanksgiv...
South of the Trout Farm on the day after Thanksgiv...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Collar on South of the Trout Farm
Mark Collar on South of the Trout Farm
Rock Climbing Photo: Eugenia enters the crux sequence of South of the T...
Eugenia enters the crux sequence of South of the T...

Comments on South of the Trout Farm Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 23, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of the few routes at Wheeler that feels stiff for the grade. I'd call it solid 10a, compared to the other routes nearby. In other words, this routes feels a solid grade harder than Cruiser or Ezra. Nonetheless, the crux is short and very well protected.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 26, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Top anchor consists of 2 shiny new 1/2" Rawls with Fixe Supershuts (so nice!).

Special thanks to Erik Anderson.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2009

FA: Mike Gould (solo), Gould & Agulara, 1996.
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 16, 2011

Careful of the loose rock after the crux where some good right hands are.

edit: careful of loose rock in various parts actually. Easy to avoid, though.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
4 days ago

On Sunday I noticed a new line of bolts just left of Trout Farm, and gave the rig a go to see what it's all about. I do think it may have been possible to bolt an independent line, to the left, but the new line does share a bolt with Trout Farm. And the new low bolt will likely change the way people climb Trout Farm as it can be clipped to avoid the unprotected start. The anchors also include a set of rings which are absolutely unfit for climbing applications; they are a nearly spaghetti-thin, hardware store variety. I lowered off the quick links they are attached to instead.

I'm a bit surprised to see a new line squeezing on a very popular route here. We really just addressed this issue down the creek. It's my hope that in the future we can understand and agree, as a community, as to what constitutes responsible bolting here at Wheeler. I'd also encourage would-be FA'ists to stand behind your work, post your routes, and not to bolt anonymously in such a popular zone.

Don't hesitate to contact me directly with questions regarding hardware and other issues; I'm happy to help out and contribute what I can.

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