South of the Mouth 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Sep 12, 2004 |
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South of the Mouth.
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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This climb is a massive right-trending flake and corner system, perhaps 50m uphill from the bolted routes Slab Left and Slab Right.
The route's length is made longer by the fact that the flake system continuously leans strongly right. It is mostly a crack, but climbs much of its length like a juggy hands-traverse.
I did not place any gear on this but found it likely that the route would take mostly solid gear from 2-3.5" along its length.
To get down, downclimb the route or walk up the ridge 20m to the raps above 'Move Like A Stud' or if that is missing or in disrepair, downclimb the 4th class descent even higher.
Protection A set of hexes and cams, heavy on the hands+ sizes if you want lots of gear. This crack/flake is thin in a few places and may require some attention to place good gear. Might not be a great beginenr climb
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