South Nuttall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Along the approach road, you'll see a few trees wi...
One summer my friends and I were the only people making the journey to this crag.
It is a good choice for the summer as there is lots of shade. The rock here is of high quality and rivals many crags in the area. This area is unique in that is is home to the best 5.12 finger cracks in the Gorge, and some of the most imposing 5.10 offwidths also. There are many high end sport climbs here as well. If you are looking for climbing that has some adventure this crag is for you.
Check with Water Stone, or Roger Fox at The Rocky Top Retreat for the most current access information.
Climbing Season For the New River Gorge Proper area.
Weather station 5.6 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in South Nuttall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Nuttall:
Featured Route For South Nuttall
Temporary Insanity 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
: The New River Gorge
: ... : South Nuttall
I'm just going to go ahead and say it– this is the best hard splitter at the NRG, and is defined by consistent 5.12 crack climbing, with maybe three v5-6-ish cruxes involving face holds thrown in to keep it challenging.Start well to the left of the splitter, and climb maybe 35 feet of 5.9 slabby climbing to get to the base of the splitter. It's unprotected, but if you're on a hard climb like this you should not be falling on 5.9, right? This is the only runout section of the route.At the bas...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jun 12, 2011
really cool area with way more than its share of 5.12 cracks. I don't want to give too much away about it, since the guidebook gives a pretty good description, but some beta: some of the trails to the crag are easy to lose. Wear long pants, even in the summer; they may as well call the place "South Nettle." If you can find the rap-in point, do it. It's much easier to navigate this place above the cliff, though it may take a couple trips to get the geography dialed.