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South Island

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South Island Rock Climbing 


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Location: -43.8979, 171.2988 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,089
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 30, 2007
Forecast:
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Mt. Tasman reflected in Lake Matheson

Description 

The south island has a wide range of climbing opportunities from bouldering on the east coast, sport cragging in the north and on the west coast, and alpine experiences in the mountain range along the western coast. There are loads of other non-climbing activities to plan around your visits to the spread out crags. Make sure your check out the fly fishing, sea kayaking, and trekking while you are in the country.

Make sure you pickup a copy of "South Island ROCK" by Lindsay Main and Tim Wethey. This was the best reference for the whole island that I found. There are also a number of smaller guide books out there for individual crags.

Getting There 

There are many short flights from the the northern island to the major cities in the south.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

219 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',36],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',14],['5.7',10],['5.8',20],['5.9',33],['5.10',50],['5.11',47],['5.12',24],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',7],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Island:
Fickle Finger of Fate   V1 5     Boulder, 5'   Castle Hill : Spittle Hill
lung arete   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   Castle Hill : Quantum Field
Think Tank   V4 6B     Boulder, 9'   Castle Hill : Quantum Field
Cauldron   V4 6B     Boulder, 9'   Castle Hill : Quantum Field
Beautiful Edges   V4 6B     Boulder   Castle Hill : Spittle Hill
Acid Test   V5 6C     Boulder   Paynes Ford : First Watering Hole
The Unrepeatable   V6+ 7A     Boulder   Castle Hill : Quantum Field
Tuppimaster   V7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   Castle Hill : Spittle Hill
Racing in the Streets   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Charleston : Wonder Wall
Good Bye Cream-Poofters   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Paynes Ford : Track 1
Temples of Stone   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Paynes Ford : Track 2
1080 and the Letter G   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Paynes Ford : Track 6
Rawhide   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Paynes Ford : Track 1
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Island

Featured Route For South Island
Rock Climbing Photo: John Bestfather is all smiles on Headbanger's Aret...

Headbanger's Arete 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Oceania : New Zealand : ... : Main Cliff
This is a classic sharp arete, with fairly sustained climbing up nicely textured rocks. All bolts are well-spaced....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of South Island Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Southern Alps seen from Gillespies Beach
The Southern Alps seen from Gillespies Beach
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Cook
Mt. Cook
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset from Pioneer Hut
Sunset from Pioneer Hut
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit ridge of Mt. Aspiring
Summit ridge of Mt. Aspiring
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending from Mt. Douglas
Descending from Mt. Douglas
Rock Climbing Photo: Milford Sound, Fiordland (South Island, New Zealan...
Milford Sound, Fiordland (South Island, New Zealan...
Rock Climbing Photo: Elephant Rocks.  Super cool area worth stopping by...
Elephant Rocks. Super cool area worth stopping by...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Cook, South Island, New Zealand
Mt. Cook, South Island, New Zealand
Rock Climbing Photo: Milford Sound, Fiordland (South Island, New Zealan...
Milford Sound, Fiordland (South Island, New Zealan...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cook and Tasman as seen from Lendenfield
Cook and Tasman as seen from Lendenfield
Rock Climbing Photo: Heli-skiing in the Mt. Cook region (South Island, ...
Heli-skiing in the Mt. Cook region (South Island, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heli-skiing in the Mt. Cook region (South Island, ...
Heli-skiing in the Mt. Cook region (South Island, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: 43-meter Kawarau Bridge, near Queenstown...home to...
43-meter Kawarau Bridge, near Queenstown...home to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on the Double Cone, as seen from Single C...
Climbers on the Double Cone, as seen from Single C...

Comments on South Island Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Skelton
From: Lyttelton, New Zealand
Jun 2, 2013
A bit of a heads up, the beta herin is not entirely accurate. The NZ equivalent of MP is climbnz.org.nz/ and you'll find most routes there.
By James Garrett
Jul 3, 2016
I was advised not to bother with bringing rock gear this time of year as it would only be wet and cold and it was "too early for skiing".... All of which couldn't be further from the truth:)!
New Zealand roadside cragging rocks and is of high quality and so beautiful with the seaside vistas nearby!
Perfect temps and cragging conditions right now! Kiwiland rocks!!:) so beautiful!!

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