South Headwall  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  J. Thornton on Apr 11, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Two 20- or 30-foot sections of 5.7 with decent pro placements available were encountered, and lots of low 5th class terrain in the 4 or 5 technical pitches. The route has ledges available for belay stations for every pitch.

Several thousand feet of steep scree and 3rd class terrain are encountered getting up to the base of South Headwall, sometimes with loose rock and sandy conditions. Becky's guidebook has a very good description of the approach and route. A detailed description will be entered here soon, and maybe some photos.

Access is the same as the other south-side routes. This is a sunny route on sunny days.

Location 

It is a long scramble up to the South Headwall, which can easily be seen just below the summit on the south side. This steep cliff (not vertical) is several hundred feet tall. The climber tops out very near and a bit west of the summit.

Protection 

Cams, Stoppers, some long slings. No fixed gear was seen back in 1996.