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Sport, trad, and bouldering are all found at this rock, with potential for new routes in each category. The rock is massive granite, which can be crumbly in places but is overall of fine quality. Crystals and sharp edges can be somewhat hard on your tips. Granite Beach and other routes with Southern exposure catch a lot of sun and can be a warm hang on mid-winter days. Electric Sky gets less direct sun. The preferred descent from the summit is the 3rd class route on the NW side of the rock. No known access issues. The first pitch of Granite Beach is a classic 80' sport line (12a) here. Do this and you'll want to come back!
The South formation is over 160 feet tall and is at approximately 7884' elevation. See the directions for the Pinewood Rock Area for driving and trail information to the saddle between the two formations (N 40 deg. 15.630 min., W 105 deg. 22.259 min.).
11 Total Routes
Featured Route For South Formation
Southwest Direct 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R CO : Lyons : ... : South Formation
Southwest Direct is the bolted line 50 left of Lima Bean.It ascends the southwest face in two direct pitches. High on the wall, at the juncture of the west and southwest faces is a distinct prow with a finger crack leading to its right side - Southwest Direct's second pitch is the clean face just left of the crack.P1 --11a, 80 feet, serious (due to loose rock at start), 8 bolts, 2-bolt Fixe ring-anchor -- Solo up 30 feet of broken, 5th-class rock to reach the first bolt. After the 1st bolt, th...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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