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Sport, trad, and bouldering are all found at this rock, with potential for new routes in each category. The rock is massive granite, which can be crumbly in places but is overall of fine quality. Crystals and sharp edges can be somewhat hard on your tips. Granite Beach and other routes with Southern exposure catch a lot of sun and can be a warm hang on mid-winter days. Electric Sky gets less direct sun. The preferred descent from the summit is the 3rd class route on the NW side of the rock. No known access issues. The first pitch of Granite Beach is a classic 80' sport line (12a) here. Do this and you'll want to come back!
The South formation is over 160 feet tall and is at approximately 7884' elevation. See the directions for the Pinewood Rock Area for driving and trail information to the saddle between the two formations (N 40 deg. 15.630 min., W 105 deg. 22.259 min.).
8 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in South Formation
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Formation:
Lima Bean 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Electric Sky 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Granite Beach 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
True Grit 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Granite Beach Headwall 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For South Formation
Granite Beach 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a CO : Lyons : ... : South Formation
Excellent route with 3 cruxes and two rests and some variability in opinion as to the relative difficulty at the cruxes. It may depend somewhat on the fact that for the 2nd two cruxes, there is different beta potential. I personally find the 1st crux to be the hardest once you know the route, but probably easier to onsight than the 3rd crux. Anyway, this is an excellent route. A little runout with clean falls in 2 or 3 places, but well-thought out bolt placements. Use of a long runner on bolt @P...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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