Mountain Project: Climbing Cody > South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

Secluded valley southwest of Cody with the Shoshone River running through it. No phones, no lights, occasionally motorcars. A definite alpine feel with a variety of grades to climb. Many times the approach is the crux of the route. Bands of harder horizontal stone provide benches for ice to form on. Much of the rock is crap, referred to by locals as "kitty litter". Rock gear is a waste to carry in most cases, although bugs and angles can be helpful if you're putting up something mixed and you need a mental piece or something that may hold bodyweight. As a rule "V" threads are the preferred method for descent, occasionally bolts or a slung tree. Typical ice climbs may be 100m to 300m (or longer) in length interrupted by steps of creek walking between pitches.

Getting There

From Cody take Hwy 291 (South Fork Road) to the South Fork, about 45 minutes. Bison Willy's at the mouth of the Canyon is no longer an option for sleeping closer to the ice. Hotel it in town or sleep in the dirt at the Deer Creek Campground a couple of miles into the canyon.

Check out Cold Fear for details on current conditions and lodging. For route info, get your hands on the old Cozzens guide or the new Winter Dance book (Joe Josephson) with all the details.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Fork Shoshone (Ice):

Ice Fest WI5 Ice, Alpine, 220 feet

Stringer WI3+ Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2 pitches, 160 feet

Sendero Illuminoso WI4 Ice, Alpine, 425 feet, Grade II

Cabin Fever WI4 Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 200 feet

Bitches Brew WI5+ Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 650 feet

The Schoolhouse Route WI4 Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III

Desperate for Lovin' WI4 Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II

Ro Sham Bo WI5 Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150 feet

Too Cold to Fire WI4 Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 70 feet

Bozo's Revenge WI3+ Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 100 feet

The Main Vein WI4 PG13 Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III

High on Boulder WI4 Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II

The Moratorium WI4+ Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II

Broken Hearts WI5-6 Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet

Smoked Turkey WI3 Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet

The Pillar of Pain WI5 Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 120 feet

Moonrise WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 420 feet, Grade III

Spyin' 'n Flyin' WI5 Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches

Smooth Emerald Milkshake WI4 Ice, Alpine, 800 feet

Mean Green WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV

Featured Route For South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

Broken Hearts WI5-6 WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

Broken Hearts has one of the more milder approaches in Cody. Allow 45 minutes. The gully is 3.4 miles from the Ishawooa Mesa Trailhead. Park by some cottonwood trees when you can see the first 2 pitches from the road. The route meanders in a gully and some short WI3 steps 5-20 feet high are encountered in between the main pitches, which are a short slog of 5-15 minutes. Pitches 6 & 7 (both WI6) are rarely formed. This is probably one of the longer ice routes in the lower 48 esp. if all pitche...[more] Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

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1st rope-stretching pitch of Mean Green WI4, only ...	Hey Baby, let me show you my "O" face! Crossing t...	Trying to finagle a mixed start to get on Joy Afte...
start of the approach..	wildlife on the approach...	from right to left: One Hitter, Mean Streak, and M...
BETA PHOTO: Bozo's Revenge... Cody WI3... A great warm up for ...	Simon Ahlgren moves out on the fatter than I've ev...	Thin first pitch Main Vein
Main Vein	Last pitch Main Vein	The crux of most of the climbs....not drowning on ...
Racing the setting sun after a long day in the Sou...	Cody sunrise.	The Boss
One of the many amazing belay platforms climbing i...	View of the South fork of the Shoshone, looking up...

Comments on South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

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By kirra
Dec 23, 2006

Bison Willy's (at mouth of canyon) currently not available. Same name lodging in Cody town is open and a nice place to hang your helmet. Several climbs in and lots to choose. Check out 'Core Mountain Sports' -Aaron Mulkey for the latest beta in case he's been too busy climbing to update ColdFear.com...(:

FREE camping is available at Deek Creek Campgrnd in the valley about 5mi in. Saw several people tenting in the snow. But I don't think there is any Pizza delivery out there

By Alec
Jan 30, 2009

There was a fatality on the Main Vein in early January 2009 due to a massive avalanche: blog post

The South Fork isn't known for avalanches, but don't forget to check out conditions before getting out there.

By Bill Rusk
From: Duluth, MN
Aug 30, 2009

Hello,
I'm planning a trip here this winter. I was wondering when the climbs start forming up? Is late Dec. too early?
Thanks,
BR

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 7, 2009

Hi Bill,
I am sure that this is too late to be helpful, but no, Dec. is not too early.
Best.

By Buff Johnson
Nov 11, 2009

Lodging "Condition Report" (so to speak):

The Flying H Ranch has an interest in renting cabins to ice climbers.

Contact is Steve and Diane Byrum. Probably not best to put the full contact info on the web as of yet, unless someone has a better idea. No info as to rates.

From Kev:

They're at the end of the spur road on the south (north-facing) side of the Valley. This is the ranch that you hike around when approaching Mean Green, HoB, Moonrise etc. if you opt to drive across the river rather than do the Cody two-step.

By JonBates
From: cody, wy
Feb 23, 2012

Please consider using "naked threads" for rappel anchors in the South Fork. It seems most folks use double ropes and this technique is even stronger than using smaller diameter cordage (litter) to rappel on. I've used up to a 9.2mm rope w/o issues. If you don't have doubles and naked threads are not an option, please add a quick-link ($1-$2 at the hardware store) to your threads so more than just a few people can safely rappel off it. Way too many routes out here have huge rat nests of burned out cordage and webbing on top of the pitches. If there is an established thread at a rap station, use it, don't add another thread or steal the link thinking it's booty or something. How much trash we leave behind can affect the future of South Fork. thanks!

By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Jan 13, 2013

For those looking for a place to stay try the Big Bear Motel.
In Cody 1/4 from the turn off for the South Fork road.
1/13 we paid $47 a night for a 2 queen room. Clean and comfortable with table, fridge, micro and plenty of space to dry out gear.

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South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

Description

Getting There

The Classics