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Wham
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South Face T 

South Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Culp and Parker 1961
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jul 24, 2012

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Description 

The south face of Wham offers up some one-star climbing, but the summit is a worthwhile objective and there will be no crowds.

P1: (5.0, 150 feet) Start below a large, left-facing dihedral with a wide crack. Follow a loose ramp system up and right to gain the ridge line.

P2: (5.5, 150 feet) Pick the easiest line up the ridge line and belay on a large ledge system with some trees.

P3a: (5.9-, 150 feet) This variation climbs the obvious, left-facing dihedral off of the ledge. This is not the standard route and offers up some horrible rock and an offwidth.

P3b: (5.7, 150 feet) The standard route traverses up and right to gain a shallow, left-facing dihedral with a hand crack.

P4: (5.7, 150 feet) Wander up and pick the easiest line through the multiple bulges. At the final overhang, gain the summit block on the right.

The descent to the saddle between Zowie and Wham can be done with a single 70m rope. After the 1st rap, hug the tower and find the 2nd anchor on the left side. With a 70m, you will need to downclimb about 15 feet of class 4 ledges on the 2nd rap. The standard descent continues down the loose gully with another rappel of ?? meters. I highly recommend scrambling up to Zowie and joining the South Face route for the last pitch.

Location 

The start of the climb is in the gully between Zowie and Wham.

Protection 

SR.


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