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Grand Sentinel
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Cardiac Arete S 
South Face T 

South Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 3,101
Submitted By: Chris DeWitt on Aug 22, 2011  with updates from echo1

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Grand Sentinel

Description 

This route is steep and exposed but the climbing is generally very mellow for the grade. Work a corner then pull a roof. Be careful of loose blocks.

P1: Low 5th class, 15m. Start around the left corner and climb a short pitch to a ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: 5.7, 20m. Cracks and face climbing lead to another bolted belay at a small ledge below the obvious right facing corner.

P3: 5.8, 25m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a bolted belay at a ledge.

P4: 5.9, 25m. Climb cracks straight above the belay to the summit. An easier version goes left at about 5.4.

Location 

This route is on the south side of the Grand Sentinel.

Protection 

Standard rack, .3 to 4. Rappel with a 60m rope.


Photos of South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: South Face of Grand Sentinel
South Face of Grand Sentinel
Rock Climbing Photo: Exposure on South Face of Grand Sentinel
Exposure on South Face of Grand Sentinel

Comments on South Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hans
From: Squamish, BC
Sep 5, 2012

Not much of a description, so I'll add what I can.

Approach via the trail to Sentinel Pass from Moraine Lake. As of 2012, a minimum of 4 people is required due to park restrictions from bear activity. However,this is a very popular hike so it is easy to join up with others at the trailhead.

The Grand Sentinel is located about 1km beyond the pass, towards the Paradise Valley.

P1: Low 5th class, 15m. Start around the left corner and climb a short pitch to a ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: 5.7, 20m. Cracks and face climbing lead to another bolted belay at a small ledge below the obvious right facing corner.

P3: 5.8, 25m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a bolted belay at a ledge.

P4: 5.9, 25m. Climb cracks straight above the belay to the summit. An easier version goes left at about 5.4.

As in the description, the climbing is not terribly difficult for the grade, although there is some loose rock and runout sections. As an alternative, I would recommend the well bolted sport route on the west face, Cardiac ArĂȘte. This is a better climb IMO.
By Chris DeWitt
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 13, 2012

Thanks Hans, I've updated the "Getting There" for the areas.
By steincold
From: Basalt
Apr 18, 2016

Fun route! They have a limit/necessary number of people that must hike to the Sentinel due to bear activity. Easy to meet more folks and bail at the pass... Just can slow the approach a bit if you get caught with a slow group.

Unfortunately I lost my girlfriends camera when we got back to the parking area (or somewhere along the way) at Moraine Lake. Any ideas where else to post/look?
By Tom Gnyra
Administrator
Apr 20, 2016

You could try tabvar, another climber's forum on facebook
By Essox514
Aug 17, 2016

We did this route and skipped the 5.9 chimney and climb the 5.5-5.6 variation on the left. In this case, no need for anything bigger than #3. A few loose rocks here and there, but very few. No runout sections :-). The third pitch goes at 5.8 mainly for the roof, as the crack is pretty easy.

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