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Saxon Rock
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Saxon Arete S 
South Face S 
Wanted Man S 
West Slab S 

South Face 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Wright, RM
New Route: Yes
Season: Most.
Page Views: 269
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Chase the bolts up the steep South Face. After the third clip, the line is a bit relentless with no move easier than 11+. The end can be done either right (11+) or left in the corner (12b). The crux is the entire mid section that offers a lot of climbing in a short route. Excellent granite.


Location 

This lies on the South Face.


Protection 

Draws only. Double bolt anchor at the top.



Comments on South Face Add Comment
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By steph johnson
Jul 6, 2011

Hi Richard, my name is Steph Johnson. My in-laws have a cabin in Georgetown (Chuck Schoebinger, recently passed), and while most of my time in G-town has been spent skiing and " ice climbing" at the Plume as I broke away from my family, I could not contain myself on July 4, 2011 after looking at your good work at the Saxon crag. Also, I hiked to the dirty pool, which looked really good as well, as did the roadside crag at Empire. Also, I climbed with Tom and Mike at Castlewood Canyon on July, 2nd at the Dungeon, which is a super cool zone. Next time to G-town, I'll have to get on your routes; I just need a belayer! Also, we need to camo the hardware! Peace be with you, Richard, and thanks for your vision, Steph Johnson.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 27, 2011

Hi Steph. Sorry it took so long to respond; I have not looked in on the site for a while. Thanks for the nice comments. I think the Saxon crag is pretty neat as well. I've been developing a tick list of new routes in the area, including Guanella Pass, so if you are around G-Town it might be nice to hook up. My email is linked to MP.com. How do know Tom and Mike? We go back 20 years or so.