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Chase the bolts up the steep South Face. After the third clip, the line is a bit relentless with no move easier than 11+. The end can be done either right (11+) or left in the corner (12b). The crux is the entire mid section that offers a lot of climbing in a short route. Excellent granite.
This lies on the South Face.
Draws only. Double bolt anchor at the top.
By steph johnson
Jul 6, 2011
Hi Richard, my name is Steph Johnson. My in-laws have a cabin in Georgetown (Chuck Schoebinger, recently passed), and while most of my time in G-town has been spent skiing and " ice climbing" at the Plume as I broke away from my family, I could not contain myself on July 4, 2011 after looking at your good work at the Saxon crag. Also, I hiked to the dirty pool, which looked really good as well, as did the roadside crag at Empire. Also, I climbed with Tom and Mike at Castlewood Canyon on July, 2nd at the Dungeon, which is a super cool zone. Next time to G-town, I'll have to get on your routes; I just need a belayer! Also, we need to camo the hardware! Peace be with you, Richard, and thanks for your vision, Steph Johnson.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 27, 2011
Hi Steph. Sorry it took so long to respond; I have not looked in on the site for a while. Thanks for the nice comments. I think the Saxon crag is pretty neat as well. I've been developing a tick list of new routes in the area, including Guanella Pass, so if you are around G-Town it might be nice to hook up. My email is linked to MP.com. How do know Tom and Mike? We go back 20 years or so.