|Type:||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b C1 [details]|
|FA:||Larry Coats, Tomas Robison 1998|
|Submitted By:||Larry Coats on Oct 23, 2010|
|Comments on South Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jake Dayley
Mar 20, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
My friend and I climbed the South Face yesterday and found it to be an excellent route with far less loose rock than expected. It seems someone replaced the bad bolt on the third pitch because we found all protection to be pretty bomber. Maybe they did a lot of cleaning as well? The friable holds right off the belay were a bit scary but the traverse was quite easy and the final crack to the summit was just plain fun. Although there is a section of poor quality rock in the middle, it proved no big deal because of a solid drilled angle and a bomber bolt. I would actually say it's the best pitch of the route with some fists, perfect hands, and some incredible face climbing on hueco jugs! The only thing that deserves attention in our opinion was the lack of a bolted belay after the traverse on the third pitch. My friend still managed a clean free ascent with the rope drag but it would be much easier as two pitches. Plus you could maintain visual/verbal contact with the climber if it were broken into two. A good natural anchor is possible, but since all other belays are bolted it would just be better to bolt that one too. Would it be alright with the first-ascentionists if we returned to bolt that belay? Obviously we would not do it without permission. I was eyeing this line as far back as 2002 a remember being pretty disappointed when I found someone had beat me to it! Congratulations on a great line and for the good style it was put up in. A great route for any lover of Sedona style climbing! Thanks to whoever came before us and fixed up the third pitch!
We thought the pitches worked out as follows:
P1 - 5.10 loose rock but still a decent pitch.
P2 - 5.10+ A great, well protected pitch with everything from squeeze chimney to fingers.
P3 - 5.10+ Another great pitch. Unique and varied climbing up the center of the South face to a great summit.
Ha - I can't figure out how to remove the C1 from the page so just imagine it's not there...