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Middle Troll
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South Face T 

South Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Reese Martin, John Rich, Pete Pollard
Season: May to July
Page Views: 1,853
Submitted By: cerickson on Jul 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The South Face of the Middle Troll
Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

Follow blocky terrain (trending right) with short steep sections aiming for the obvious crack just below/left of the summit. Route finding is a challenge lower, but it all leads to a super splitter, perfect-width hand crack. A couple of short cruxy sections lead to ledges below the summit. Rap anchors are set for double lines and are easy to locate.


Location 

Travel moderate snow slopes (caution: bergschrund!) and get on the rock as low as you can. Ditch your skis/snowshoes, switch to rock shoes and go! Unless there are unseasonably high snow conditions you can leave the boots behind and travel only with rock shoes once you've left the snow.


Protection 

Full rack to a #3 or #4 camalot, set of nuts.



Photos of South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Atop the Middle Troll - one of the finest summits in the Alaska Range.
Atop the Middle Troll - one of the finest summits ...
Classic Middle Troll
Classic Middle Troll
Approaching the South Face route on the Middle Troll (route goes straight up and then slightly to the right)
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the South Face route on the Middle Tro...
Adrienne Kentner climbing in early season mixed conditions on the 3rd pitch of the South Face.
Adrienne Kentner climbing in early season mixed co...
The route, one of many possible options down low.  Up high, follow the rap anchors so you don't get suckered into a dead end crack and have to traverse.
BETA PHOTO: The route, one of many possible options down low. ...
Comments on South Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Noah.J
From: Carrboro, NC
Jun 22, 2012

Super, super classic climb. The rock quality is poor down low, with significant rock fall danger. Higher up the climbing becomes beautiful and highly enjoyable.

For descent, contrary to the above, rap anchors are set for single ropes. Don't haul a second rope up, as the route is a rope dragging beast, and you're doing well if you can avoid getting your rope stuck at least once. There is only one section that requires any down climbing, and that's for less than 40' traversing to another rap anchor. Any suspect anchors on the rap line from the summit were replaced in mid-June 2012.

By Richard Shore
May 21, 2013

The first three pitches are very chossy. Expect mud, lichen, moss, and gravel climbing; marginal gear; if you try it too early in the season, snow and ice as well. I found a small axe to be handy for clearing snow and chopping steps. Do yourself a favor and climb the snow gully all the way up to the alternate start, cutting out the first 2.5 pitches.