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Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.
Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Western Grebe 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R Trad, 4 pitches, 460'
Western Grebe Mantel Var. 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Daffy's Shaft 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Fool's Paradise 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport
Great Grebes, Batman! 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Dark of the Moon 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Sportsman's Paradise 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 215'
Duck Waddle Variation 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Frozen Stool 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For South Face
Fool's Paradise 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : South Face
Great 3rd pitch var. for Western Grebe.Climb up a good corner with a crack that protects well, pull the small roof up onto a slab that follows a bolt protected dihedral, pull another small roof onto another slab and up to a great ledge, then run up some more easy slabs to a 2 chain anchor shared w/Western Grebe....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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