No longer cruisin' But look at those colors. No!...
Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress
and "Green A"
rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.
Two-rope rappels are necessary on a lot of routes, and be aware that although many of the old 1/4-inchers have been replaced, not all have. South-facing and hot in the summer, yet too high up in the canyon for the winter sun to effectively melt the snow equates to a great Spring/Fall area.
Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area
parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.
If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.
Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.
It is very easy to turn north too early on these trails, which will take you to the Peeler Face
area. Look for bolted slab routes that the trail passes.
Weather station 3.5 miles from here
17 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Featured Route For South Face
Sportsman's Paradise 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : South Face
Pitch 1- From the belay boulders climb up, then right around the edge of the first steep wall. Move back left and set up a belay with gear. (5.6)Pitch 2- Climb a steep boulder problem near the right edge of the next steep wall splitting the slabs. Above the boulder problem bulge, easier climbing leads up a right leaning dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, move back left on easy slab to a belay anchor below the next thin roof crack. (5.11)Pitch 3- Climb the next roof us...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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