L to R R to L Alpha
Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.
Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.
Browse More Classics in South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Western Grebe 5.8 R Trad, 4 pitches, 460 feet
Western Grebe Mantel Var. 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Daffy's Shaft 5.10a R Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Fool's Paradise 5.10 Sport
Great Grebes, Batman! 5.10b/c R Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet
Dark of the Moon 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Featured Route For South Face
Sportsman's Paradise 5.11 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : South Face
Pitch 1- From the belay boulders climb up, then right around the edge of the first steep wall. Move back left and set up a belay with gear. (5.6)Pitch 2- Climb a steep boulder problem near the right edge of the next steep wall splitting the slabs. Above the boulder problem bulge, easier climbing leads up a right leaning dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, move back left on easy slab to a belay anchor below the next thin roof crack. (5.11)Pitch 3- Climb the next roof us...[more] Browse More Classics in UT