South Face  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  5,601. Good page?    Administrators:  Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Nathan Fisher on Nov 27, 2007 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

On private land. MORE INFO >>> The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage. Be respectful of private property. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

No longer cruisin' But look at those colors. No!...

Description 

Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.

Two-rope rappels are necessary on a lot of routes, and be aware that although many of the old 1/4-inchers have been replaced, not all have. South-facing and hot in the summer, yet too high up in the canyon for the winter sun to effectively melt the snow equates to a great Spring/Fall area.

Getting There 

Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.

If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.

Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.

It is very easy to turn north too early on these trails, which will take you to the Peeler Face area. Look for bolted slab routes that the trail passes.

The Classics

Featured Route For South Face

Sportsman's Paradise 5.11  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : South Face

Pitch 1- From the belay boulders climb up, then right around the edge of the first steep wall. Move back left and set up a belay with gear. (5.6)Pitch 2- Climb a steep boulder problem near the right edge of the next steep wall splitting the slabs. Above the boulder problem bulge, easier climbing leads up a right leaning dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, move back left on easy slab to a belay anchor below the next thin roof crack. (5.11)Pitch 3- Climb the next roof us...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT