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L to R R to L Alpha
Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.
Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Western Grebe 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R Trad, 4 pitches, 460'
Western Grebe Mantel Var. 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Fool's Paradise 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport
Great Grebes, Batman! 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Dark of the Moon 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Sportsman's Paradise 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 215'
Featured Route For South Face
Daffy's Shaft 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R UT : Wasatch Range : ... : South Face
This route was really cool. On the left end of the slabs is this bolted line. The first bolt is low and easy to get to. The second bolt has a thin slabby area to work with. The pin between the two is missing. Climb to the roof, protect it, and surmount it. It is easier than it looks. Place a piece in the crack to your right, and run it out to the next mini-roof. pop this and head to your last bolt. The crux is protected by an old angle piton. I was able to slot 1 brass and 1 BD micro t...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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