No longer cruisin' But look at those colors. No!...
Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress
and "Green A"
rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.
Two-rope rappels are necessary on a lot of routes, and be aware that although many of the old 1/4-inchers have been replaced, not all have. South-facing and hot in the summer, yet too high up in the canyon for the winter sun to effectively melt the snow equates to a great Spring/Fall area.
Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area
parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.
If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.
Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.
It is very easy to turn north too early on these trails, which will take you to the Peeler Face
area. Look for bolted slab routes that the trail passes.
Weather station 3.5 miles from here
17 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Featured Route For South Face
Frozen Stool 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : South Face
Suffering from frozen stool? Perhaps cruxing on an old manky pin will solve your blockage. Frozen Stool is a fine post-graduate exam in technical(?) chimneying (or stemming) up a steep corner on the east end of the Black Arch- the line beckons while en-route to the western side of the Black Peeler. Start off the sloping ledge that forms the foundation of Black Arch. Corner jams and feet smears amid the Arch lead to a powerful move around a small roof and into the corner proper. Establish you...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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