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L to R R to L Alpha
Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.
Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Western Grebe 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R Trad, 4 pitches, 460'
Western Grebe Mantel Var. 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Fool's Paradise 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport
Great Grebes, Batman! 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Dark of the Moon 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Sportsman's Paradise 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 215'
Featured Route For South Face
Western Grebe Mantel Var. 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : South Face
The second pitch of Western Grebe can be modified with a hard mantel thrown in. It is a nice move and definitely committing. Instead of traversing all the way left to avoid the roof. About 15 feet before the main route is a solitary bolt a-top a mini-flake. Do it, just do it!!...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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