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L to R R to L Alpha
Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.
Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Western Grebe 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, 4 pitches, 460'
Western Grebe Mantel Var. 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Fool's Paradise 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Great Grebes, Batman! 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Dark of the Moon 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Sportsman's Paradise 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 215'
Featured Route For South Face
Sportsman's Paradise 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c UT : Wasatch Range : ... : South Face
Pitch 1- From the belay boulders climb up, then right around the edge of the first steep wall. Move back left and set up a belay with gear. (5.6)Pitch 2- Climb a steep boulder problem near the right edge of the next steep wall splitting the slabs. Above the boulder problem bulge, easier climbing leads up a right leaning dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, move back left on easy slab to a belay anchor below the next thin roof crack. (5.11)Pitch 3- Climb the next roof us...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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