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Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.
Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Western Grebe 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R Trad, 4 pitches, 460'
Western Grebe Mantel Var. 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Fool's Paradise 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport
Great Grebes, Batman! 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Dark of the Moon 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For South Face
Frozen Stool 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : South Face
Suffering from frozen stool? Perhaps cruxing on an old manky pin will solve your blockage. Frozen Stool is a fine post-graduate exam in technical(?) chimneying (or stemming) up a steep corner on the east end of the Black Arch- the line beckons while en-route to the western side of the Black Peeler. Start off the sloping ledge that forms the foundation of Black Arch. Corner jams and feet smears amid the Arch lead to a powerful move around a small roof and into the corner proper. Establish you...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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