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South Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 
Daffy's Shaft T 
Dark of the Moon S 
Duck A L'Orange T 
Duck Waddle Variation T 
Fool's Paradise S 
Frozen Stool T 
Great Grebes, Batman! T 
Hornet, The 
Pied-Billed Grebe S 
Playing In The Sun T 
Ruddy Duck T 
Sportsman's Paradise T 
Via Duck S 
Walking the Duck T 
Western Grebe T 
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 
Why a Duck? S 

South Face Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Nov 27, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.

Two-rope rappels are necessary on a lot of routes, and be aware that although many of the old 1/4-inchers have been replaced, not all have. South-facing and hot in the summer, yet too high up in the canyon for the winter sun to effectively melt the snow equates to a great Spring/Fall area.

Getting There 

Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.

If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.

Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.

It is very easy to turn north too early on these trails, which will take you to the Peeler Face area. Look for bolted slab routes that the trail passes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Face:
Western Grebe   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 460'   
Western Grebe Mantel Var.   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Daffy's Shaft   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Fool's Paradise   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Great Grebes, Batman!   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Dark of the Moon   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Sportsman's Paradise   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 215'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Face

Featured Route For South Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Unfrozen Stool.

Frozen Stool 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : South Face
Suffering from frozen stool? Perhaps cruxing on an old manky pin will solve your blockage. Frozen Stool is a fine post-graduate exam in technical(?) chimneying (or stemming) up a steep corner on the east end of the Black Arch- the line beckons while en-route to the western side of the Black Peeler. Start off the sloping ledge that forms the foundation of Black Arch. Corner jams and feet smears amid the Arch lead to a powerful move around a small roof and into the corner proper. Establish you...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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