|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Galen Rowell, Chris Jones, Fred Beckey - October 1970|
|Page Views: ||14,332|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Owen on Mar 7, 2006|
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BETA PHOTO: Schematic of the route we took in August 1992.
A route on solid rock in a magnificent position.
P1 5.4 Climb up a groove, traverse right to a little wall with large knobs, up this to a large ledge; spike belay belay on the right.
P2 5.6 On the righthand edge of the ledge is a corner formed by a detached block, climb this, then up a crack, traverse right around an overlap, climb a crack and switch right into another crack to reach a small ledge in an alcove. Nut belay.
P3 5.6 Climb the wall on the left of the alcove, traverse right along an easy ledge and gain a ramp of different rock, head right up this for 30ft, then climb a crack (small wire) step left and climb a slab to a ledge. Nut belay.
P4 5.6 Climb a crack, then easily right to a chimney crack, up this to a ledge on the right. Climb a beautiful left-facing corner (50 Classics shows Allen Steck on this) to a thinner crack, up this then step right to a small ledge and nut belay below the Slot Pitch.
P5 5.8 Climb The Slot, good holds on the face to the right to a small ledge running across the face. Belay at a crack on the right with nuts. A magnificent pitch.
P6 5.7 Up the crack, with an awkward move right to gain a ledge below a steep wall. Nut belay on the right.
P7 5.7 From the righthand end of the ledge go over 2 small pinnacles and climb up a steep right facing corner to a semi-hanging belay on nuts. A great pitch.
P8 5.7+ A long intricate pitch. Climb the crack that the corner has become until it peters out, ahead looks hopeless, but step left into another crack, nut, head up and left, aiming for a small pocket in the slab above, this pocket takes a 2.5 Friend. Make a delicate step left to a crack, good pro. Step left up a rib to a ledge (wires in diagonal crack on the right), climb a steep step to a crack (TCU), head up this to a ledge, traverse right to a small spike and nut belay.
P9 5.6 The Furrow Pitch. The face above is deeply furrowed with large holds, head up this, aiming for bushes, good pro to start. Soon the protection becomes sparse, head rightwards to a nook overlooking the recess high on the Dome. Thread belay. An exposed pitch.
P10 5.6 The Dick Long Pitch (see 50 Classics). Traverse left over bushes to a steep flake crack, up this in a magnificent position to a huge ledge with a dead tree. Thread (and possible bivi!!)
P11 5.6 Climb the orange face behind the belay directly to another ledge. Thread. A brilliant finish.
P12 Easy climbing leads to the summit ridge.
Start at a tree beneath a recess to the left of the buttress which holds the climb.
Descend the north ridge to its lowest point and scramble down.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 7, 2006
Sorry about the detail - I couldn't resist transcribing something that I had written down 20 years ago after I did the climb for the first time. Some of the pitches can probably be combined with a longer rope. I don't claim for one minute to have described the route of original ascent, except perhaps for The Slot Pitch.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Mar 9, 2006
Don't underestimate the subtle route finding on P8. A little lapse of concentration and you could easily be climbing scary runout 5.10. Be sure to take your time to find the path of least resistance.
|By Adam P.|
Apr 18, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
It's been a while since I've done this route, but there isn't much beta I can offer in addition to what has already been stated. The Supertopo is spot on for the route and gear. It's a great route and a lot of fun.
|By John Korfmacher|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 9, 2008
If the sight of Charlotte Dome as you approach down Bubb's Creek doesn't get you fired up, you should sell your gear and take up knitting instead.
IIRC the anchors on the first two or three pitches were not very good and the pro was kinda minimal. But the moves were easy and the rest of the route is excellent with interesting movement, exposure, and spectacular views every time you look up. This is the kind of adventurous climbing that the Sierra has always been about.
|By Justin York|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 9, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Got stuck at the top for four hours in a torrent of rain, hail, and lightning. Besides that, the climb was great and the position is most excellent. The polished granite walls across the canyon were yosemite-esque, and not a soul in sight.
Used the supertopo which was spot on. Never harder than 5.8 and the pro was good. I found tricams useful in many spots where nothing else would have worked (i.e. small pockets). Therefore, I don't remember the mandatory runouts being bad at all. The rock and the climbing get better as you ascend. Furrows pitch was cool!
Did the approach over Kearsarge pass. Pretty, but long. STAY HIGH on the manzanita slope bushwhack after leaving the trail past the lake. The campsite below charlotte dome's shoulder is superb, but will make you work to get to it!
|By Spider Savage|
Mar 16, 2010
The best climb ever.
I was carrying a handmade sketch Chris (author above) gave me but I got off route up there around 6 & 7. Went up too soon instead of to the right. Had some nice hard face climbing but no place to put pro. Took me an hour to build one belay. The rest of the day was great!
|By Jasmine Kall|
Aug 23, 2010
Did this yesterday, don't go down to early on the decent. Keep going till you hit a trail. There was a lovely decaying fixed line down the steep section that helped us, but it won't last much longer.
Saw my first bear also on the way in and a giant rattler!
|By vanishing spy|
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Great time in the back country. We were the only ones around for miles. We camped at Charlotte Lake due to a late start on the approach day. In retrospect I recommend camping at the lake rather than at the dome. Yes, we had a longer (mostly down hill) approach and a predawn start but I'm thrilled I didn't have to drag my camping gear through the manzanitta or any farther than needed. Plus there are Bear Boxes at the lake.
The climbing was fun but the setting was spectacular. We climbed pitches 1-3 and pitched it out from there. I did find the hole for a #2 on Pitch 8 but also found it committing, run out and wild. I took this pitch too far (60m) into the furrows where it was difficult to find a good belay. The summit was not what I expected from a dome.
|By Justin Tomlinson|
From: Monrovia, CA
Jan 28, 2012
From Steve Roper's "Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" in 1976, after identifying the start of the climb, his route description is, "Ten pitches of cracks, dihedrals, and chickenhead knobs lead to the summit."
|By super dave|
From: las vegas, nv
Aug 20, 2012
If you head left on the upper part of the pitch after the furrow pitch you can climb this cool roof crack out left and up to the same ledge the regular pitch finishes on, fun.
Sep 2, 2012
This route is so rad! Hiked in from the East. Long, but way worth it. Supertopo made the cross country directions from Charlotte Lake more convoluted than needed be. We found the climbers trail well marked with cairns and pretty easy to follow. I agree that the Supertopo is right on for route and gear, except consider skipping the #4.
Everyone in our two parties agreed that pitch 8 was the crux of the route and more difficult than the slot. Also, never found any 40ft runouts on the slab pitch. I got in 3 or 4 good pieces. There is a pretty clear path of least resistance on this pitch and I think it would be hard to get into runout 5.10 territory accidentally. The last pitch is one of the best and the summit is simply amazing!
From: Monterey, CA
Oct 27, 2012
Is this route climbable in winter? November?
|By Floyd Hayes|
Jul 21, 2013
WESTERN APPROACH AND DESCENT: Bubb’s Creek Trail crosses two forks of Charlotte Creek, which are about 0.1 mile apart. According to my GPS it’s 7.3 miles from the asphalt at Road’s End to the first fork and an additional 0.1 mile to the second fork. The campsite with a bear locker is just beyond and downhill from the second fork. We camped just before and downhill from the second fork, where there was more shade. The climber’s trail is about 150' west of the first fork and starts under a big Douglas Fir. The start is marked with cairns and branches outlining the first 15 feet. Three of us started hiking in the dark and followed cairns, but the “trail” was indistinct and difficult to follow, and we did a fair amount of bushwhacking. Somehow we lost the cairns about a third of the way up and they suddenly reappeared near the top of the approach. We ascended up a slight ridge between a gully and cliffs to the left and Charlotte Creek on the right, and were never very close to Charlotte Creek. With three of us climbing we were slow, so we descended in the dark and wound up descending closer to Charlotte Creek, never seeing a single cairn! The descent was stressfully steep with scattered short cliffs to our left and right, but below us we always managed to find relatively open class 3-4 gullies or slopes, with occasional bushwhacking short distances between them. We eventually came out within 30 feet of the start of the trail. There are multiple ways to get up and down the steep slopes, so if like us you can’t find a “trail,” don’t stress out!
PROTECTION: We thought the climb was reasonably well protected, with occasional short runouts but nothing more than 30' on terrain >5.5. We carried two each of the smaller cams and one each of the larger cams, but I wished I had a few more larger cams, which I ran out of on the second 5.8 pitch. The big #4 cam came in handy on both 5.8 pitches, so I was happy to have it.
PITCHES: We closely followed the Supertopo route description. At times it was a bit bewildering but we pretty much stayed on route the entire time, except pitch 1 when our leader led the arete (5.7) left of the standard start. Pitch 4 did not have “poor pro” and I never saw the “5.5 chimney,” which I must have climbed to the left of. On pitch 5 we climbed a corner and face to the left with an exposed and poorly protected traverse (with one tricky 5.7 move) back to the right at the top of the pitch. The flake to the right looked easier and we wondered why Supertopo labeled it as “no.” About two-thirds up pitch 8 I moved right onto the face, which looked easier than the crack and felt like 5.6, running it out about 30' before moving back into the crack and to the miserable belay stance (my companions stayed in the crack). Pitch 9 protected surprisingly well–definitely no 40' runouts. We thought pitch 10 was easy, feeling more like 5.6 than 5.7. Pitch 11 felt harder than 5.4, more like 5.7! We were a bit confused about where to go on pitch 12 and wound up going up cracks between the “gold slab” and “steep gold wall,” which seemed to be the correct route. Above pitch 12 we thought a few moves below the summit ridge felt like class 4 rather than class 3. We also thought a few of the moves during the descent were class 4.