South Face 

Sorry about the detail - I couldn't resist transcribing something that I had written down 20 years ago after I did the climb for the first time. Some of the pitches can probably be combined with a longer rope. I don't claim for one minute to have described the route of original ascent, except perhaps for The Slot Pitch.

Don't underestimate the subtle route finding on P8. A little lapse of concentration and you could easily be climbing scary runout 5.10. Be sure to take your time to find the path of least resistance.

It's been a while since I've done this route, but there isn't much beta I can offer in addition to what has already been stated. The Supertopo is spot on for the route and gear. It's a great route and a lot of fun.

If the sight of Charlotte Dome as you approach down Bubb's Creek doesn't get you fired up, you should sell your gear and take up knitting instead.

IIRC the anchors on the first two or three pitches were not very good and the pro was kinda minimal. But the moves were easy and the rest of the route is excellent with interesting movement, exposure, and spectacular views every time you look up. This is the kind of adventurous climbing that the Sierra has always been about.

Got stuck at the top for four hours in a torrent of rain, hail, and lightning. Besides that, the climb was great and the position is most excellent. The polished granite walls across the canyon were yosemite-esque, and not a soul in sight.

Used the supertopo which was spot on. Never harder than 5.8 and the pro was good. I found tricams useful in many spots where nothing else would have worked (i.e. small pockets). Therefore, I don't remember the mandatory runouts being bad at all. The rock and the climbing get better as you ascend. Furrows pitch was cool!

Did the approach over Kearsarge pass. Pretty, but long. STAY HIGH on the manzanita slope bushwhack after leaving the trail past the lake. The campsite below charlotte dome's shoulder is superb, but will make you work to get to it!

The best climb ever.

I was carrying a handmade sketch Chris (author above) gave me but I got off route up there around 6 & 7. Went up too soon instead of to the right. Had some nice hard face climbing but no place to put pro. Took me an hour to build one belay. The rest of the day was great!

Did this yesterday, don't go down to early on the decent. Keep going till you hit a trail. There was a lovely decaying fixed line down the steep section that helped us, but it won't last much longer.

Saw my first bear also on the way in and a giant rattler!

Great time in the back country. We were the only ones around for miles. We camped at Charlotte Lake due to a late start on the approach day. In retrospect I recommend camping at the lake rather than at the dome. Yes, we had a longer (mostly down hill) approach and a predawn start but I'm thrilled I didn't have to drag my camping gear through the manzanitta or any farther than needed. Plus there are Bear Boxes at the lake.

The climbing was fun but the setting was spectacular. We climbed pitches 1-3 and pitched it out from there. I did find the hole for a #2 on Pitch 8 but also found it committing, run out and wild. I took this pitch too far (60m) into the furrows where it was difficult to find a good belay. The summit was not what I expected from a dome.

Perfect weather.

From Steve Roper's "Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" in 1976, after identifying the start of the climb, his route description is, "Ten pitches of cracks, dihedrals, and chickenhead knobs lead to the summit."

If you head left on the upper part of the pitch after the furrow pitch you can climb this cool roof crack out left and up to the same ledge the regular pitch finishes on, fun.

This route is so rad! Hiked in from the East. Long, but way worth it. Supertopo made the cross country directions from Charlotte Lake more convoluted than needed be. We found the climbers trail well marked with cairns and pretty easy to follow. I agree that the Supertopo is right on for route and gear, except consider skipping the #4.

Everyone in our two parties agreed that pitch 8 was the crux of the route and more difficult than the slot. Also, never found any 40ft runouts on the slab pitch. I got in 3 or 4 good pieces. There is a pretty clear path of least resistance on this pitch and I think it would be hard to get into runout 5.10 territory accidentally. The last pitch is one of the best and the summit is simply amazing!

Is this route climbable in winter? November?