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South Face

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Open Book Area 
South Face - Left Side 
South Face - Right Side 

South Face 


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Elevation: 7,000'
Lat, Long: 33.75924, -116.68509 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 165,024
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Dpurf on Feb 24, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The great South Face

Description 

This area is around the right side of Tahquitz which includes the Open Book area. This area offers some short climbs and is warm on cool day but heats up during the summer. It starts with the Open book Dihedral and keeps moving right and up. This area offers a variety of climbing, from good moderates to stout to even aid climbing.

The usual descent is the Friction Route, but there is also a rappel route starting on the 2 bolt anchor atop the Open book to a 2 bolt anchor for Green Arch and then down to the ground (you will need 2 ropes for this rappel).


Getting There 

From Lunch Rock head up and right to the base. Then follow the base around and right until you see the Open Book Dihedral. This is the start of the area.


20 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Left Ski Track   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   South Face - Left Side
The Chauvinist   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   South Face - Left Side
Mechanic's Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Open Book Area
Right Ski Track   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   South Face - Left Side
The Innominate   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Face - Left Side
Open Book   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 490'   Open Book Area
Zig Zag   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Open Book Area
Chingadera   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   South Face - Left Side
Green Arch   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Open Book Area
Browse More Classics in South Face

Featured Route For South Face
Second pitch, the crux runout section.  With positive pocket holds like that, not too scary.

Mechanic's Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Open Book Area
This shares the first bit of the Open Book and then traverses right to easier ground. The traverse move to gain the right crack is a bit interesting. Then after setting an anchor, the 2nd pitch asends a line of bulges and chickenheads without much gear. The third pitch traverses and ends in a 4th class grove with a fun topout on HUGE holds!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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overview of Open Book area
BETA PHOTO: overview of Open Book area
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