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The South Face has a longer and trickier approach than other parts of Suicide Rock. However, it has a nice selection of one and two pitch routes. It is in the sun after early morning, and therefore can be a good place to climb in cool weather (even mid-winter).
There are two common approaches. One is to hike up the large gully to the left of the Sunshine Face. When the terrain steepens, scramble up near the left side of the gully, scramble through a tunnel, and emerge on walking terrain at the right end of the South Face. The alternative is to hike around to the right side of the rock, then left all the way to the top of the South Face, and finally do a 70 foot rappel down to where the tunnel ends.
16 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Miscalculation 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Disco Jesus 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Hades 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Featured Route For South Face
Disco Jesus 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : South Face
This is a fantastic face route on right side of the South Face. It starts via a thin crack (5.10 or a one bolt face variation at 5.11a) on the front side of a big detached block to a bolted belay. The crux P2 takes a tough move through an undercling to a bolt, from here one can go left and do Crucifiction (5.11d), another bolt and a right leaning undercling/flake. From here a bolt leads to a very dicey highstep/mantel on a knob before finishing at a bolted belay. P3 adopts similar face move...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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