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Paul Irby on pitch 1 of the South Face of Dreamspe...
Very cool route on mostly good rock. The leader should be solid since there are definitely 5.10 do not fall sections, though the 5.11 crux is very safe. The approach is heinous - scramble up slabs on the north side to get to the ledge between Dreamspeaker and Dreamcatcher. The route climbs the obvious splitter in the picture.
Pitch 1 - traverse easily 10 feet right, and head up an overhanging blocky section with less than perfect rock. This is 5.10 and the R section. It used to be protected by a fixed angle, but I pulled it out with my fingers and it is now sitting on my fireplace. Work your way into the well protected splitter which starts out hard 5.11 fingers and eases and widens as you go up. Traverse right to a ledge with an overhang directly above it - sort of cave like. 120' 5.11b.
Pitch 2 - fire over the roof via a burly 4 camalot sized crack. Continue up a gaping offwidth above, and traverse left on somewhat friable rock. Head up through easier cracks to the amazing summit. 90', 5.10+.
Enjoy the spectactular summit. There is a decent anchor where with 60 meter ropes you can make a double rope rap to the ground. There is a station in between, so you may be able to descend with one rope, but I have no idea if it would work or not - easiest to do the double rope rap. There was no summit register when I did this, and you may want to bring webbing to replace the tat on top.
Lots of cams from small fingers to 4 camalot(the 4 camalot is key). The wide section is hard to protect - maybe try a 5 camalot or 4 big bro. Stoppers if you feel lucky.
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 12, 2003
The route climbs the splitter in the center of the varnished face.
|By Larry Coats|
May 1, 2007
FA: Tim Coats, Scott Baxter, Gary Roggera- mid 80's
|By Sam Lightner, Jr.|
Nov 28, 2012
A few things... getting to the base of the tower is pretty scary and you should probably rope up for the last bit. Lots of dirt and consequences will get you a write up in the local paper. This is one of the softest routes I've climbed outside of Arches. The offwidth is, in my opinion, solid 5.11. Much harder than any 5.10 offwidth in the Creek, if you use that as a base. you need #5's and #6's for it. The original anchor, two pins, has been replaced and is camo-chained up, for a rappel back into the notch where you leave your packs.