|Torre Grand South Summit
The crux is the first pitch. The rock is very polished and you must be comfortable with climbing well above gear on the easier sections.
The first pitch begins beneath a crack that runs up through an overhang. Note, there is a much more difficult route to the left that is also a crack that climbs and overhang. I would avoid this.
Some fixed pro. Belays generally have a single bolt cemented into the rock. You can protect the crux.
|By Brian in SLC|
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Some additional description for this route:
The first pitch begins just left of the SE Arete, on the far right side and lowest part of the South Face, in a shallow chimney weakness. The second pitch goes slightly left and up, until its possible to head left under the roof on easy terrain aiming for a wide and very exposed vertical crack/flake. Third pitch climbs up the steep, wide flakey crack to the left side of the roof, and, traverses to the left then up steep weaknesses trending slighly left and belaying beneath a large corner. 4th pitch climbs up the large corner to its top, stepping left to a fixed belay anchor. Either traverse off left here (recommended finish), or, up and right to the top.
Descent: we traversed off left per the recommended finish. Follow the ledge around west to a terrace. North to the saddle. Descend gully (possible rappel) and, staying left, go around the west tower and back around to the start of the route (or, down to the refugio for lunch/dinner and a pitcher of red wine!).
|By Bruce Hildenbrand|
Dec 21, 2012
Watch out for rope drag on the pitch three as you traverse underneath the big roofs and around several sharp corners.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2013
We went for the summit- loose, runout, easy, and we got down with a single 70 meter rope.
| || Cima Ovest/Torre Grande Descent |
|By Jojo Protheroe|
Jun 26, 2014
Bring a BD number 2 for the traverse pitch (pitch 3?). The whole route eats gear... I'd do it a hundred times over.