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Torre Grand South Summit
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South Face (Via Miriam) 

South Face (Via Miriam) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 530'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Angelo and Guiseppe Dimai, Arturo Gaspari. June 29, 1927
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,701
Submitted By: Michael G on Oct 3, 2010
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Merrill Bitter comes around the easy but airy 2nd ...

Description 

The crux is the first pitch. The rock is very polished and you must be comfortable with climbing well above gear on the easier sections.


Location 

The first pitch begins beneath a crack that runs up through an overhang. Note, there is a much more difficult route to the left that is also a crack that climbs and overhang. I would avoid this.


Protection 

Some fixed pro. Belays generally have a single bolt cemented into the rock. You can protect the crux.



Photos of South Face (Via Miriam) Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up p3 of Via Miriam.
Looking up p3 of Via Miriam.
Via Miriam on the Torre Grande Cima Sud.  Route marked in yellow.
BETA PHOTO: Via Miriam on the Torre Grande Cima Sud. Route ma...
Start of the third pitch of Via Miriam.
Start of the third pitch of Via Miriam.
The start of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the climb.
First pitch of Via Miriam.
First pitch of Via Miriam.
Comments on South Face (Via Miriam) Add Comment
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By Brian in SLC
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Some additional description for this route:

The first pitch begins just left of the SE Arete, on the far right side and lowest part of the South Face, in a shallow chimney weakness. The second pitch goes slightly left and up, until its possible to head left under the roof on easy terrain aiming for a wide and very exposed vertical crack/flake. Third pitch climbs up the steep, wide flakey crack to the left side of the roof, and, traverses to the left then up steep weaknesses trending slighly left and belaying beneath a large corner. 4th pitch climbs up the large corner to its top, stepping left to a fixed belay anchor. Either traverse off left here (recommended finish), or, up and right to the top.

Descent: we traversed off left per the recommended finish. Follow the ledge around west to a terrace. North to the saddle. Descend gully (possible rappel) and, staying left, go around the west tower and back around to the start of the route (or, down to the refugio for lunch/dinner and a pitcher of red wine!).

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 21, 2012

Watch out for rope drag on the pitch three as you traverse underneath the big roofs and around several sharp corners.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2013

We went for the summit- loose, runout, easy, and we got down with a single 70 meter rope.

Cima Ovest/Torre Grande Descent
Cima Ovest/Torre Grande Descent