A short practice aid climb. Save it for cold winter day when nothing else is climbable. This route goes all clean on mid size TCUs and .5 cam in the roof. A wobbly old-school blade is fixed in the roof, but you won't need to use it unless you want to.
TCUs, small cams.
|Comments on South Face Roof
|By Dmitriy Zinchenko|
May 21, 2002
This route isn't all that great. There are three fixed pins in the roof which you can use, the blade pin is giant! When you start cleaning, beware of the loose rock(/crap) covering the surface of the roof above - you'll get showered with debris. Above the sloping ledge, over the roof, the rock is 5.4-5.5. I used cams of 0.5 (blue) TCU to 1" Alien. Maybe a few nuts and/or pink tricams for a belay at the ledge (rope drag sucks, otherwise).