South Face, Right
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BETA PHOTO: South Face, Right Route follows the vertical, righ...
Approach as for Wolf's Head East Ridge. Look for a series of grassy ledges just to the LEFT of a dirty chimney system (not right, as the recent Bechtel guidebook states... one of many errors discovered in 4 short days climbing here). Scramble up the grassy ledges (I'd argue 4th class, not 3rd; some may wish a rope especially if grass is wet / slippery) to the broad, sloping ledge immediately below the knife edge of the East Ridge proper. From the top of the grassy ledges, head left and ascend a sloping ramp up and left to the base of a large right-facing corner (see Beta photo).
Climb the right-facing corner using a combination of jams, laybacks, and underclings - often strenuous, never desperate. The route goes in 3-4 short pitches, with 3 belays on downward-right sloping ledges. Pitch 3 has some large loose red-colored flakes that get your attention but are easily, if gingerly bypassed. In general, the rock is gorgeous, the stance is phenomenal, and this route clearly deserves more traffic to brush away a little lichen and grit. Once onto the East Ridge proper (having bypassed the knife edge portion), follow the East Ridge route to the summit and descend as described for that route. If you've just climbed this route, I would highly recommend simul-climbing the rest of the East Ridge, although rappelling the Beckey Route is an option for descent.
- This description varies a bit from that in Bechtel's book and may represent a variation. He describes "a left-leaning, right facing flake/corner. This system is continuous and leads first hard left, then vertically toward the ridge" ... we climbed a vertical to just barely RIGHTward leaning right-facing corner ... excellent nonetheless!
Standard Winds rack to 3", extra .75-2"
A single 60m rope is sufficient, and as noted for the East Ridge descent, adequate for all the rappels.
By Gee Double
Sep 19, 2014
Flam-McKigney-Collins Aug 1980 2nd ascent..?
By Casey Engstrom
From: Lincoln, NH
Jul 25, 2016
Scramble up the grassy ledges approach, then 4th class up the obvious left trending right-facing corner, set up a belay where it gets steep. The first pitch starts right off with a super fun 5.9 hands corner. Nice belay ledge about halfway up. We did a third belay station right below the 5.10 thin crux corner (only a few moves of 10a on the whole route), could've easily gone to the ridge in 2 pitches w/ 60m. Do the full Wolf's Head ridge traverse for a full day, or rap down Beckey Route for a half day outing.