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Castle Rock
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South Face, Jello Tower 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, D. Collins
Page Views: 1,511
Submitted By: ScottH on Feb 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Phil Gleason at the crux, South Face Jello Tower, ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Noontime and Midnight Rock now open MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the steep face left of the Midway chimney. Climb steep terrain to a bulge midway up the face. After pulling through the bulge, the difficulties ease. The climbing and the gear are both better than they look from the ground. Belay from bolts on top of Jello Tower (shared by all Jello Tower routes). Consistently fun and interesting 5.8+ moves the whole way.

Protection 

Gear to 2".


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By Ray Birks
Apr 27, 2006

This climb was harder than I thought it would be and definitley gets an 8+ or a 9 rating (maybe). It is very exposed and steep through the first crack section but you can put some gear in below the bulge. There is a bolt above the bulge but to pull through it was somewhat difficult. After that it's pretty straightforward to the chains.
By Shaun Johnson
May 2, 2013

A new anchor has been placed on top of The Nose and The South Face of Jello Tower.
This makes it easier to repelle off Jello Tower when other groups are on Midway.
By Allison Herrington
From: Leavenworth
Sep 1, 2013

This is one of the best 5.8's in Leavenworth! Most leaders who can only lead 5.8 or 5.9 will find it difficult. Since it's steep, it's a safe lead, though.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

FA- Joe Hieb and unknown partner, late 50's or early 60's. One 1/4" bolt was placed. It was there when I did it, but may be gone now.
FFA- Fred Beckey, Dave Collins, 1962, they thought it was 5.7