South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle)  5.10c X

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  at least one courageous individual Submitted By:  Tony B on Oct 13, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws Details www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

In the back of the Gregory Canyon Amphitheater, next to the Inside South Face, you will see series of 3 holds, the top-most being perhaps 15' off of the ground and triangular in shape. Getting to this hold is the first crux. From there, head up and slightly left on descent holds in a B-line for the left-facing corner system. The second crux lies in the corner system, which is not as good as it looks.

Optionally, the whole thing can be climbed even further left or right, and depending upon your wanderings the grade will vary.

Protection 

According to Rossiter's Flatirons guide, this route has never seen a free ascent, but the rock does seem solid enough to headpoint. You could get a few pieces in, but the low crux would be very rough and hazardous. The higher crux merely dubious- better be sure.

Best of all, just TR it.