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South Face T 
South Face Angling Crack? T 
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South Face Angling Crack? 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unkown
Page Views: 2,604
Submitted By: Greg D on Feb 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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The crux


Description 

This is the beautiful left angling crack up the south face of South Six Shooter. It begins as a wide crack with some stemming options (doesn't feel like an offwidth). Then, angle left as it tapers from big hands down to fingers. You can do this as one pitch to a rap anchor after 90 feet. Or take it to the top in two pitches joining the last pitch of the "regular" South Face route to the top and do two single rope rappels with a 60 meter rope back down the route to the ground.

Location 

This is the beautiful left angling crack up the south face of South
Six Shooter. Unmistakable. See photo.

Protection 

Double set of Camalots from .4 to 3. Only one 3 is needed.


Photos of South Face Angling Crack? Slideshow Add Photo
Gretty S  high on crack. Rick S in lower left of photo.
Gretty S high on crack. Rick S in lower left of p...
south face crack
south face crack
Jenny S heading into the crux! <br />
Jenny S heading into the crux!
Gretty S higher on crack.
Gretty S higher on crack.

Comments on South Face Angling Crack? Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Stern
Feb 22, 2008

There's also a discussion of this variation on the South Face page, including a few photos of the pitch that I posted.
By J. Nickel
Mar 4, 2012

I climbed this crack with my friend Ben in about 1993. We started up the off width and left-angling crack for about 30' or so and then lowered off, placing two drilled pins to protect a variation start on a short arete to the left of the off width. I remember the climbing on the variation as interesting and about 5.9 or 5.10. I'm not sure if the pins are still there or not, as I haven't been back since. If the gear is still there, it's worth doing.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
May 14, 2013

Really enjoyed this start. Went up this so we wouldn't have to wait as we had multiple parties and it sounds a lot better than the 5.6 start. Great pro the whole way and a fun finger section.
By Robes
From: Leavenworth, Washington
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good fingers with a slightly awkward crux. Makes the rest of the route kinda dull.