Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
South East
Newton

$153.95 35% off

$99.95

at WildernessX

18    more...
Patagonia Women's Barely Wireless Bra

$39.00 30% off

$27.30

at Patagonia

68    more...
Blackburn Atom SL 5.0 Cyclometer Red

$59.99 25% off

$44.99

at AlsSports

64    more...
Black Diamond Serac Crampons - Clip

$169.95 24% off

$127.94

at E-OMC

1    more...
Sugoi RS Bike Short - Men's

$129.99 20% off

$103.99

at AlsSports

196    more...
Sugoi RS Bib Shorts - Men's

$159.99 49% off

$80.96

at AlsSports

298    more...
Scarpa Gecko Guide Shoe - Women's

$168.95 45% off

$92.92

at Backcountry

50    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Select Area...
Bowles Rocks 
Harrison's Rocks 
Stone Farm Rocks 

South East 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 51.119, 0.1978 Map
Page Views: 6,024. Good page?   
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Aug 12, 2007

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
 Printer View

Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


Getting established on Cat Wall.

Description 

Despite the close proximity to London the South East is probably the least visited (from outside the region) climbing area in England. Typical climbing is on small sandstone outcrops, which are normally top roped or soloed (the rock being too soft to protect with traditional gear).

The grading system used on South East sandstone is not like anything else in the UK. Only UK technical grades are used by the locals. Starting at 1a and ending up at 7a+. The grades go something like; 1a, 1b, 2a, 2b, 3a, 3b, 4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5b, 5c, etc. The reason there are no adjective grades used is that there is no leading. Routes are typically top roped or soloed. The bouldering grading system isn't broad enough, and since most of the climbs here are typically higher than you would normally boulder, the UK technical grade system suites it well.

All the rock found here, wether it is sandstone of the chalk is extremely soft, so take that into consideration. Soft chalk is good for the ice tools, soft sandstone is bad for the longevity of the climbs - take care always to preserve the rock!!


Getting There 

From London head South on the A21 towards Royal Tunbridge Wells.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South East:
Pig's Nose   5.9     TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Bowles Rocks : Williamson's Cairn Area
Cat Wall   5.10b     TR, 20 feet   Stone Farm Rocks : Cat Wall
Coathanger   5.10c     TR, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Bowles Rocks : The Amphitheater Center
Banana   5.10c     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Bowles Rocks : The Amphitheater Center
Digitalis   5.11b     TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Bowles Rocks : The Amphitheater Right Wing
Hate   5.11b     TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Bowles Rocks : Williamson's Cairn Area
Tobacco Road   5.12b     TR, 30 feet   Bowles Rocks : The Amphitheater Center
Browse More Classics in South East

Featured Route For South East
An old picture of a climber on the top overhang on Hate.

Hate 5.11b  International : United Kingdom : ... : Williamson's Cairn Area
Start up the wall and move left at the bottom of the very shallow groove and on up the wall with delicate technical moves. At the top of the wall the climbing becomes more powerful, and you must commit fully to the overhang above for success.Once passed the rounded overhang continue more easily to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Comments on South East Add Comment
Show which comments
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Mar 4, 2010

Some good esoteric info can be found here Sandrock.org

By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Apr 15, 2011

A good video showing problems and top rope at High Rocks.