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Whaleback
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South East Face T 

South East Face 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1500'
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring/Summer/Fall
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Sep 3, 2013

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Looking north down the beautiful Colby Canyon.

Description 

The route finishes on the crest of the South Ridge, about 10 minutes south of the main summit. Access to this point is gained by initially following easy benches, and large talus up a few ramps, trending right until what looks like steeper stuff is encountered. This proves easy also, although a little more exposed, mostly ledges and blocks with small to medium scree. Trend for a reddish broken wall which has a large ledge running beneath it. Hit this ledge on its left and cross rightwards beneath the reddish wall. then up steeper class 3 rock and slabs to gain much easier ground which is followed straight up to the crest of the south ridge.

Follow a ledge on the east side of the ridge, with a few slab moves to a notch, easy exposed scrambling leads from here up to the summit.

Descend the route - or go down Jonah's Joy.


Location 

Follow the spectacular trail from Big Wet Meadow towards Colby Pass, cut off this trail when closing in on Whaleback's east face, easy cross country travel leads up the west side of the valley, up a final slope to just before some small lakes. The route starts around here.


Protection 

None, it's 3rd Class



Photos of South East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Sara Susca almost at the summit.
Sara Susca almost at the summit.
Final part of the route leading to the south ridge.
BETA PHOTO: Final part of the route leading to the south ridge...
Sara Susca on the South Ridge of Whaleback.
Sara Susca on the South Ridge of Whaleback.
Slabby section of the ridge on the descent.
Slabby section of the ridge on the descent.
Sara Susca on slabs, mid section of the route.
Sara Susca on slabs, mid section of the route.
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