South East Butress
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South East Butress
|***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
Any climber who has driven through the main canyon has seen and wondered about this climb. It took me almost 2 years to go and do it but really worth it. But you do have to LOVE ofwidth.
P1: 5.9 60ft This pitch gives the meaning of "Zion Funky"
Really weird moves thrown in with "Chalkstone O' Death" on questionable rock. The chalkstone is actually somewhat solid. 2 bolt anchor at the lip.
P2: The Goods 5.10+ 130ft Exit the belay and Climb in your face fist and off hands to a squeeze. From here you can reach left and clip a bolt or skip it and go through a few weird pods to a 2 Bolt hanging belay.
P3: 5.9+ 60ft continue up the crack which turn into a well protected flaring squeeze, on frail varnished rock. Quickly turns into a tight hands roof with a crazy fun exposed move turning the lip. Varied splitter climbing on odd but good rock leads to a ledge with a anchor.
Walk / Bush wack 200 yards to climbers left and rap a fixed line in the gully. If you don't want to rap the fixed line 2 Single rope raps (off the good anchors for the fixed line) lead to the ground
The "OTHER SIDE" of angles landing.
Walk the Angles Landing trail until the first switch back. Break through the initial scrub oak to a well defined deer trail heading directly torward the climb. After 5 min head down a big sandy hill and cross a creek to a grassy field. Veer right torward the base of the climb before the hillside while looking for a cairn lined trail on the left. This will lead to the base of the decent and fixed line. walk the base right to the climb. 25min car to climb
Whole roll of tape and a old long sleeve shirt. I dare you to climb it with out that
Single 60m rope
Single set yellow TCU - 4.5 Camolot
Triples #3camolot #3.5camolot
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay for S Buttress of Angel's Landing.
By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From: Springdale Ut
Dec 13, 2015
the must love "off-width" is perhaps a bit misleading.
You must be a competent wide climber, you must love Zion. the 10+ OW is relatively short and very engaging and fun. most of the crux pitch is cupped hands and fists with. long slings are helpful managing deep pro. 1 six sized cam is nice but could be done without in a pinch, and only if you are super solid.
Ron's fixed line is still there, leave it there. you can also rap the route no problem with two ropes. though the crack can and will eat your ropes if you are not careful. there is a cool beak seem to the right.
I would recommend the route over all.