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South Cracks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Best in the fall.
Page Views: 1,210
Submitted By: Nathan W. on Aug 19, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Submitted by Dave Daly

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>


An alternative start to South Face(5.7+) that follows a series of cracks that range from hands, fingers, and some seamage that'll put you out onto the face for a bit offering no pro for encouragement. The Third pitch is mostly wandering the path of least resistance to get to Jungle ledge. After the third pitch, follow South Face the rest of the way up from the ledge before the south chimney(Jungle Ledge). There's one bolt at the end of pitch one.


Right before the start of South Face, when approached from the east gully.


Standard Rack. One bolt.

Photos of South Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Sims taking off on Pitch 1. Next to pitch 5,...
Brian Sims taking off on Pitch 1. Next to pitch 5,...
Rock Climbing Photo: The South Cracks start. Beautiful crack with littl...
The South Cracks start. Beautiful crack with littl...

Comments on South Cracks Add Comment
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By Chad N in Central CA
From: Central California
Sep 21, 2013

first pitch eats 0.75BD size cams.
By Paul F Rose
From: Atascadero
Oct 13, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

This is a very worthwhile entry into the South Face finish, first pitch goes from fingers to small hands with a short seam section pushing you onto face climbing. The second has less pro availability, but great exposure and requirement for cool.the third is mostly a contrived connection to the South face climb, but has a few nice moves trying to suck you into a corner.
By Sean P. Sullivan
From: Morro Bay, California
Mar 26, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Does anyone know if its possible to link P2&3 on this? We tried this a few months back and seemed to screw up the belay on pitch 2. We ended up sucked down and left into a corner that had webbing slung. I was thinking of just heading up around the corner and all the way to the big block below the jungle ledge. Any thoughts?

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