|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 150'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|FA:||Ed George, Bill McMorris 1947|
|Season:||Probably too hot in summer|
|Submitted By:||Pete Hickman on Oct 1, 2007|
|Comments on South Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Nov 3, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|I know it's not the hardest thing to grunt through, but shouldn't this line get a little more respect than 5.3? The two roofs on the second pitch are definitely strong climbing moves.|
By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
Dec 6, 2007
|I think that compared to other climbs at Pinacle Peak 5.3 is fair. When I first came to PP I thought everything was much harder than rated but that was because I had never climbed on granite before.|
By Debbie Vischer
Feb 15, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
|5.3?!?! My you know what!! Ratings are definitely sandbag'd in AZ. Tight off-width/chimney. Last chimney a bit tricky for a new climber - need solid stemming technique. Secure but strenuous. View worth the effort. Rap'd with single 60m rope (needed very last inch to make it to the bottom).|
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jan 1, 2010
|great line for top-rope soloists or free soloists. from the top, you get spectacular views (good for either type of soloist) and access to the anchors for powder puff and other climbs (good for top-rope soloists).|
By Colonel Mustard
Jan 12, 2011
|It's a pretty fun climb, and a great one to introduce climbers to multipitch. As Randy says, it's also a great scramble to the top.|
From: Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
I think it should be noted that a 70M WILL get you from the summit anchors(east-most top-two/biggest eyebolts) to the top of the 4th class gully anchors, down the south face. So you don't need to hassle with the mid-way rap. However, it was a bit tight with maybe 3' on each end remaining.
By NC Rock Climber
From: The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Oct 12, 2013
|This climb is a blast. Fun, diverse climbing with great pro leads to an amazing summit. HOWEVER, 5.3?!?! Seriously?!?! IMHO, that is a giant sandbag. I am not going to suggest another rating, but it didn't seem like 5.3 to me.|
By Anthony Miklas
From: Phoenix , Arizona
Nov 9, 2015
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
|Great route for pinnacle. Definitely is a sandbagged 5.3, but still quite easy.|
By Daniel Evans
From: N Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 24, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Getting there: Take the hiker's trail from the parking lot up until you see the "Rock Climbers Access Trail" sign on the left hand side. Go left up the trail and follow it all the way to the top. Once at the top, the start of pitch 1 can be found 20-30 ft to your left.
Pitch 1: The first 15 ft. off the ground of the chimney section easily goes at 5.6 and nothing less. Requires chimney technique and is too wide for cams. Bring a big bro if you want to protect it. I recommend using the small face features to your advantage sticking more to the outside of the chimney as oppose to wedging yourself deep within. Someone of smaller size may have more success doing it this way, but for me at 5'10" 185 lbs got myself stuck and had to down climb. Once you work your way onto the small blocks wedged in between the chimney 20 ft up, there is another small chimney section that goes much easier at around 5.3-5.4. Once you gain the first ledge it is 4th class to the anchor.
Pitch 2: No need to do this in 3 pitches just run it to the top from the first bolted anchor. Step around the triangle shaped boulder gaining a wide right leaning fist crack. Place gear high here to prevent the crack in triangle shaped boulder from eating your rope (you will see what I am talking about once you are up there). Follow the fist crack to the entrance of a chimney. Fist crack is about 5.3/5.4. Once you enter the chimney below an obvious block wedged above you, clip the bolt to the climbers left and pull a burley chimney move to gain access to the chimney leading up to the hand crack. Move at the bolt is one of the cruxes and easily goes at a stiff 5.6. Work your way up the chimney on easier climbing (5.4/5.5) to the face leading to the summit. The hand crack is somewhat difficult to see at first as it is on the adjacent face to your right that parallels the thin face leading up and left. This is a fairly sustained 5.6 hand crack that requires good crack technique to include stemming out left on the face. Once you make it to the top of this section, you are home free on a short 10 ft section of easy 5.2 climbing to the summit.
Descent: We rappelled from the large eyebolts on the right (east) down to the sun deck boulder where the 1st pitch bolted anchor is. You can reach this with one 70m rope with about 8-10 ft of rope left. From here you can either down climb the gully if you are so inclined or you can rappel from the anchors at sun deck ledge to the ground (which is what we did). I do not recommend the down climb to inexperienced climbers or anyone uncomfortable with downclimbing a 5.6 chimney.
Gear: Singles of .3-.75 and doubles of #1-3 Camalots with (1) #4 Camalot. Leave the nuts at home. Anchors are all bolted.
Conclusion: This route, like everything else at Pinnacle Peak is sandbagged. It is not 5.3 or remotely close. That been said it is a fantastic climb with a variety of moves on great rock. Anchors are all solid and safe. Bring (1) 70m rope and a camera for the top.