South Crack 

Been doing this climb and leading others on it for 30 years. It's one of the best in Tuolumne.

Probably my favorite climb in Tuolumne...
With a 60m rope, start with a short pitch to the top of the 5.4 pillar (just before the step right). Now P2 is a single, long 5.8 finger crack pitch to the great ledge.
P3 follows the crack up and right until it peters out.
The traditional route goes up and part the left side of the roof and is 5.7 (runout). I prefer to go up and right on runout 5.5 face (see SuperTopo) and then finish on the easy (and well protected) class 5 & class 4 corner to the top. I think the right variation is much less scary (really only a 20 & 25' runout on 5.5) and makes it possible to avoid a cluster of climbers on the left.

As good as Nutcracker and just as beautiful a setting.

Brilliant. Maybe R at the top but not the scary sort. UK grade VS 4c.

Awesome splitter finger crack. Went up and right after the crack ended. Pretty runout, but not that hard . . .

3 pitches with a 70m rope and a wee bit of simul climbing at the very end on the easy stuff.

I'd tend more towards a PG13 than an R rating for competent leaders.

I think a 40'+ runout on 5.7 slab warrants an R rating. Not very hard, but I was mentally gripped. Original line goes left and up across unprotected slab when the crack ends. The right option is an easier escape variation, 5.5 or so, but also warrants an R rating.

Great variation. Finished with the original finish to the left. Definitely an R rating. The run-out slab climbing was mostly 5.6 with an occassional 5.7 move, but you're a long way above your last piece. Also, if someone told me the finger crack on the first pitch was 5.9, I'd have bought it.

Loved sitting in the bucket and belaying up my second after the first runout slab.

Awesome climb! Breezy step across on 1st pitch. Splitter finger crack with tons of good spots to rest. Cruiser runouts, though I bet the unaccustomed will be freaked out. I thought the 5.6 runout on the last pitch was spicier than the 5.7 after the roof. Classic stuff...

The non-standard start at the very base of the P1 Crack shouldn't be overlooked. It protected okay without especially small gear but that may be improved using a small ball nut or perhaps two.