South Crack  5.8

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Jim Erickson and Pat Ament, 1970 Submitted By:  Cody Munger on Oct 2, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Poor photo quality, last one before camera died, b...

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Description 

When you first come to Surprising Crag via the main trail, this is the obvious crack to the left. It's located between the two routes The Fix and Chasing Sticks, and shares many of the same holds as these two routes.

This is done in two parts. The first is clearing a steep jam crack by stemming out on to the two adjacent routes. The second part is squeezing the annoying chimney above the jam crack.

Beware of loose holds. I pulled off a few pebbles while struggling in this slot for a while. The chimney itself is kind of blank and requires a solid wedge. My beginner wasn't able to do it and ended up using one butt cheek on the chimney and her right limbs on the final crack of the top of Chasing Sticks.

This route shares the anchor with Chasing Sticks.

Protection 

Mostly big cams and stopper. Good pro all the way up. Rack up to a #4 Camalot.