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The Capstan
Select Route:
Just Right 
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) 
South Crack 
Trough Direct SDS, The 
West Face [The Capstan] TR 

South Crack 

Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ X

Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: [unknown]
Page Views: 1,384
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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This is a good highball up the obvious slippery crack facing the road. The crux is at the beginning, maybe .11- or so finger jamming, above the hardest stuff is some 5.8 climbing to a stance 25 feet above the ground, from here one can downclimb to the east (very tricky, downclimbing mid fith class climbing) or continue on some 5.6 slab to the summit (almost soloing now). This route can be toproped too.


A highballing head.

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By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Feb 6, 2007
rating: V3 6A PG13

Good, fun route. V2 seems off. The sds is harder for sure.
By GeoffElson
Jun 22, 2007
rating: V2-3 5+

It's spot on for flagstaff V2, like most problems once the best beta is found the grade makes more sense but realistically V3.
By Tom T
Mar 12, 2009

V2-P (P is for PUCKER!) The high-ball section is easy climbing but still pretty heady.
By Rodger Raubach
Apr 30, 2011

I first did this back in the 1960s and mostly done then as a toprope problem in Kronhofer klettershchues. I did it again in the 1980s with new sticky rubber La Sportivas, and it seemed a lot easier. I'd give it a V2/V3 rating. Not all that hard, as Flagstaff boulder problems go....
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