South Crack Right  5.6 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 6/'06 New Route:  Yes Season:  any Submitted By:  Tony B on Jun 26, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This 'crack' is a series of cracks really, but the protection is not good until you are some considerable and dangerous distance from the ground, perhaps 7 or 8 meters, and with a bad landing. At this point a 3.5" cam or large hex can be put into a vertical hole that can be seen from the ground- solid gear. The crux comes at nearly the top of the climb, in a pod just before topping out.
This route is not published for the sake of attracting more attention and travel to it. Rather I hope to save you the time of bothering with it yourself.

Location 

To reach this route one must access the West Face of Tiny Tower. This is best done after climbing the route, or from the North side. Duck through a hole formed by a short chimney capped by a chock-stone to get to the South face.
A few meters east of this there is a large pine growing near the Wall, with a right-leaning crack starting near it. This is 'Tiny Enjoyment Crack' (5.9-). A few meters more to the right of the tree is 'South Crack Right.'

Protection 

This route is R rated and has a lack of pro to start, and some bad rock. Take a standard light rack and keep your wits about you.