South Buttress Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Climbing Areas Map, West Rock Ridge State Park
The South End hosts the majority of the recent development at West Rock SP with some very classy off angle traditional, mixed, and multi-pitch routes. The fixed protection can be spaced on easier sections of climbs and there may be some run-outs. Be VERY careful of loose rock, a lot has been done to clean the routes but this is still a major issue in this area.
THESE ARE NOT YOUR TYPICAL SPORT ROUTES. THESE ROUTES CAN BE DANGEROUS! BOLT SPACING CAN BE SPARSE DUE TO LACK OF SOLID ROCK. AN UNEXPECTED FALL COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THIS IS NOT A SPORT CRAG. THERE IS A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF BLOCKS DISLODGING AND A POTENTIAL FOR FIXED GEAR TO FAIL.
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET HERE!
A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR SOME BALLFIELD ROUTES!
Hike up from field, along path uphill and right. Follow trail back left along base of cliff for 100 or so feet to the climbers trail heading up right to the 4th class scramble.
Climbing Season For the Western Coastal Slope area.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
27 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in South Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Buttress:
Featured Route For South Buttress
Desparête 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a CT
: Western Coastal Slope
: ... : Old Quarry Walls
Climbs the obvious, orange, outrageous serrated, stepped arête in the middle of the cliff on incredibly solid orange streaked stone. A New England classic close in quality or on par with other New England classic arêtes such as of Edge of The World on Cathedral Ledge or Predator at Rumney. Start up the first section of Devils Cut then launch left onto the arête with bear hug and compression moves then continue up the arête . Its Desparête! A more direct start up the arête will push t...[more] Browse More Classics in CT
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 7, 2014
Watch out for poison ivy, too!!! It's everywhere. I grew up here in the 60s and 70s and the scabs have just cleared up recently...LOL.
By Morgan Patterson
Jan 8, 2014
Man you got that right Peter. If you're schwackin you'll be scratchin'.