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South Buttress

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South Buttress  


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Location: 41.33181, -72.95988 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,528
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 4, 2013
Forecast:
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Chance of Rain
65° | 39°
Snow
39° | 29°
Partly Cloudy
37° | 23°
Clear
37° | 18°
Partly Cloudy
39° | 34°
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BETA PHOTO: Climbing Areas Map, West Rock Ridge State Park

Description 

The South End hosts the majority of the recent development at West Rock SP with some very classy off angle traditional, mixed, and sport multi-pitch routes. The fixed protection can be spaced on easier sections of climbs and there may be some run-outs. Be VERY careful of loose rock, a lot has been done to clean the routes but this is still a major issue in this area -

ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET HERE!

A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR SOME BALLFIELD ROUTES!

Getting There 

Hike up from field, along path uphill and right. Follow trail back left along base of cliff for 100 or so feet to the climbers trail heading up right to the 4th class scramble.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',4],['5.11',8],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Buttress:
Tax Evasion Haven   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Nickle And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Ballfield Slabs
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Devil's Cut   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
30 Seconds to All Night   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Ballfield Slabs
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Ballfield Slabs
Browse More Classics in South Buttress

Featured Route For South Buttress
Looking down the route from the anchors.  Desparet...

Slightly Removed 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c CT : Western Coastal Slope : ... : Old Quarry Walls
The stunning obvious golden wall on the left face opposite of Desparete. Start up a small corner, then make boulder moves out a bulge. Climb into a huge bomb bay corner reminiscent of a desert corner. Climb up a splitter crack through a roof, then onto a slab. The crux is at the very end....[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Comments on South Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 7, 2014
Watch out for poison ivy, too!!! It's everywhere. I grew up here in the 60s and 70s and the scabs have just cleared up recently...LOL.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 8, 2014
Man you got that right Peter. If you're schwackin you'll be scratchin'.