Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
South Buttress

Select Area...
Ball Field Slabs 
Old Quarry Walls 
Overlook Routes 

South Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.33181, -72.95988 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,239
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 4, 2013
Forecast:
Tonight

Friday

25° | 14°
Saturday

16° | -1°
Sunday

14° | 8°
Washington's Birthday

33° | 24°
Tuesday

49° | 32°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Climbing Areas Map, West Rock Ridge State Park

Description 

The South End hosts the majority of the recent development at West Rock SP with some very classy off angle traditional, mixed, and multi-pitch routes. The fixed protection can be spaced on easier sections of climbs and there may be some run-outs. Be VERY careful of loose rock, a lot has been done to clean the routes but this is still a major issue in this area.

THESE ARE NOT YOUR TYPICAL SPORT ROUTES. THESE ROUTES CAN BE DANGEROUS! BOLT SPACING CAN BE SPARSE DUE TO LACK OF SOLID ROCK. AN UNEXPECTED FALL COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THIS IS NOT A SPORT CRAG. THERE IS A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF BLOCKS DISLODGING AND A POTENTIAL FOR FIXED GEAR TO FAIL.

ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET HERE!

A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR SOME BALLFIELD ROUTES!

Getting There 

Hike up from field, along path uphill and right. Follow trail back left along base of cliff for 100 or so feet to the climbers trail heading up right to the 4th class scramble.

Climbing Season

For the Western Coastal Slope area.

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',4],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Buttress:
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of the Slum   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Ball Field Slabs
Tax Evasion Haven   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Nickel And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Ball Field Slabs
That 70 Show   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Ball Field Slabs
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Devil's Cut   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
30 Seconds to All Night   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Ball Field Slabs
The People's Rock   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 55'   Old Quarry Walls
The Tree of Life   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Old Quarry Walls
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Ball Field Slabs
Winning and Losing   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Old Quarry Walls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Buttress

Featured Route For South Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Elliot working the new route a day before sending ...

Desparête   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a  CT : Western Coastal Slope : ... : Old Quarry Walls
Climbs the obvious, orange, outrageous serrated, stepped arête in the middle of the cliff on incredibly solid orange streaked stone. A New England classic close in quality or on par with other New England classic arêtes such as of Edge of The World on Cathedral Ledge or Predator at Rumney. Start up the first section of Devils Cut then launch left onto the arête with bear hug and compression moves then continue up the arête . Its Desparête! A more direct start up the arête will push t...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Comments on South Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 7, 2014
Watch out for poison ivy, too!!! It's everywhere. I grew up here in the 60s and 70s and the scabs have just cleared up recently...LOL.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 8, 2014
Man you got that right Peter. If you're schwackin you'll be scratchin'.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!