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2. South Buttress

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Atlantis Area 
Wonder Wall 

2. South Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.05202, -71.16753 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,232
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 11, 2010
Forecast:
Today

59° | 30°
Monday

63° | 46°
Tuesday

63° | 46°
Wednesday

68° | 47°
Thursday

65° | 50°
Friday

61° | 49°
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Tim Martel on Sky Streak, 2004.

Description 

The South Buttress is the relatively steep, imposing wall on the left-most side of the cliff. While the rest of Whitehorse is characterized by friction climbing, the South Buttress offers technical and pumpy edge climbing up a soaring vertical wall. There are even some cracks thrown in too.

This area is divided into two sub-areas. The Atlantis Area is the farthest left part of the wall. This area contains classics such as Hotter Than Hell, Inferno, and Atlantis. The Wonder Wall Area includes routes to the right of Lost Souls and to the left of the Children's Crusade Wall.

Getting There 

Follow directions to the individual areas.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',6],['5.10',10],['5.11',3],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 2. South Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 2. South Buttress:
Brimstone   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Atlantis Area
Inferno   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 380'   Atlantis Area
Hotter Than Hell   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   Atlantis Area
Cold Day in Hell   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Atlantis Area
Lost Souls   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Atlantis Area
Atlantis   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Atlantis Area
The Last Unicorn   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Wonder Wall
Tranquility    5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Atlantis Area
Sky Streak   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Wonder Wall
Jacobs Ladder   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Atlantis Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 2. South Buttress

Featured Route For 2. South Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: P.Ross and Kim Smith on the FA of the Final pitch ...

Science Friction Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : ... : Wonder Wall
So, historically Science Friction Wall is a full-length climb up the South Buttress. However, in modern times only the 4th (crux) pitch is commonly done. Even this pitch has a complicated history with 3 separate finishes - this entry describes the most common, known as the Webster Finish.Begin at the end of Sky Streak, opting to take the left hand finish and belay at three bolts under a small roof. Pass the roof on the right, then follow intricate climbing, clipping the (upgraded) bolts up the b...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on 2. South Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Aug 21, 2010
There are a few bolted routes and nice corner cracks on the short wall above Inferno/Tranquility. Does anyone know what that wall is called or any info on those climbs? I couldn't find them in the Websters guidebook.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 22, 2010
here you go jeffery :)
mountainproject.com/v/new_hamp...

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