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BETA PHOTO: South Buttress of Corte Madera
This is a gear-protected route with gear belays. Pitch breakdown is subjective. Here's how I would do it next time...
P1 5.10a 120': Scramble up the ramp, carefully stemming past the yucca to the steep OW and squeeze chimney. A cruxy section of OW & lieback moves gets you to a rest, then more squeeze chimneying and stemming gets you through a second crux and up to a nice belay (med. gear) just above an old bolt.
P2 5.9 190' (or 2 pitches): Lieback up the flake to a wide crack. Face climb and stem up to a rest midway up the crack, then either chimney in to place pro or lieback up the wide crack to the small roof where it pinches off to tight hands. Lieback up over the roof, then wander straight up thinning cracks and face climbing to a short splitter just right of a large bush. Belay at the large dirt-covered ledge.
P3 5.8 120': Climb up the sparsely protected face directly below the roof and choose to pass the roof on the right (original route) or left (our choice). Passing the roof on the left involves some tricky liebacking and stemming around the corner of the roof to easier stemming in a wide crack. Belay somwhere above.
P4 5.easy 100': Scramble up easier terrain to the top of the formation.
Approach the base of Corte Madera via a variety of options (rap in from the top or hike or drive your 4x4 down the gnarly Espinosa Trail to the lower trailhead). Look for the obvious wide, right-facing crack system splitting the crag right at the toe of the buttress.
A set of nuts and single cams up to BD #4 with doubles of #2, #3, and #4 being useful. We also brought a #5 which got used but wasn't a necessity.
|Comments on South Buttress
|By andre kovacs|
From: san diego, ca
Jan 28, 2011
If your into OW's and runout's this climbs for you. Can link 5 pitches into 3 with a 70 meter rope. Longest route at Corte Madera!
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a R
This is an excellent route - can't think of another pure trad line in So Cal that is better.
The second pitch squeeze was the business for me.
No chance of falling out of it but it was a lot of work.
offwidth and run out
what more could ya ask for!!