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Corona/Dos Equis Wall
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South Buttress 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on May 4, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Optional belay at the base of the crack seen in th...

Description 

This route climgs the buttress to the right of the Dos Equis Face. It's a nice featured face, steep in areas, and provides a significantly easier alternative to many of the climbs out on the face itself. The summit is nice, so give this climb a shot.

The crux here is right off the deck -- the first 20 feet or so are steep and bouldery, and pro is somewhat thin. About 70 feet up, you'll get to a spot where you may want to build an anchor to climb this thing in two pitches. Save yourself a bunch of time -- keep climbing!! Although you can't tell from here, there's only about 10 more feet of 5th class from this point.

Protection 

Standard rack. Long slings for belay.


Photos of South Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
The buttress...
BETA PHOTO: The buttress...
Corona and Dos Equis Wall
BETA PHOTO: Corona and Dos Equis Wall
The start of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the climb.
South Buttress
BETA PHOTO: South Buttress

Comments on South Buttress Add Comment
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 3, 2003

It's a full 200' (60m) to the top, but as Brian states, it eases up to low 5th class for the last bit. To descend, scramble down to climber's right.
By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Apr 24, 2007

This was a fun climb. We broke it into two pitches because we didn't know what to expect on the summit. This worked out well for us as it gave us both some lead fun. The obvious belay for the second pitch is at the base of 20 or so foot off width (not steep). If you do it in two pitches and want a quick anchor, walk up the summit slab to two south facing bolts (one of which is loose). The most difficult part of this moderate route is the first 15 feet off the deck, in my opinion.
By attila
Jan 24, 2010

Do this in two pitches. A 60 meter rope is barely enough otherwise, and the rope drag is hellacious. To corroborate another commenter, the first part off the ground is the crux. The anchors at the summit are fine to rap off the west face.