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This route climgs the buttress to the right of the Dos Equis Face. It's a nice featured face, steep in areas, and provides a significantly easier alternative to many of the climbs out on the face itself. The summit is nice, so give this climb a shot.
The crux here is right off the deck -- the first 20 feet or so are steep and bouldery, and pro is somewhat thin. About 70 feet up, you'll get to a spot where you may want to build an anchor to climb this thing in two pitches. Save yourself a bunch of time -- keep climbing!! Although you can't tell from here, there's only about 10 more feet of 5th class from this point.
Standard rack. Long slings for belay.
BETA PHOTO: The buttress...
BETA PHOTO: The start of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: Optional belay at the base of the crack seen in th...
BETA PHOTO: South Buttress
|Comments on South Buttress
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 3, 2003
It's a full 200' (60m) to the top, but as Brian states, it eases up to low 5th class for the last bit. To descend, scramble down to climber's right.
|By Josh Hibbard|
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Apr 24, 2007
This was a fun climb. We broke it into two pitches because we didn't know what to expect on the summit. This worked out well for us as it gave us both some lead fun. The obvious belay for the second pitch is at the base of 20 or so foot off width (not steep). If you do it in two pitches and want a quick anchor, walk up the summit slab to two south facing bolts (one of which is loose). The most difficult part of this moderate route is the first 15 feet off the deck, in my opinion.
Jan 24, 2010
Do this in two pitches. A 60 meter rope is barely enough otherwise, and the rope drag is hellacious. To corroborate another commenter, the first part off the ground is the crux. The anchors at the summit are fine to rap off the west face.