South Buttress Right, Mt. Moran 

A few thoughts:

The crux felt like 11c to me, but it was wet. COnsidering this is normal, I'd go 11c. I didn't have any, but blue aliens or gray metolius would have worked great. THe scars are not deep.

The traverse pitch is amazing.

The bolts on the last pitch are there for mental support and its solid 5.10 slab. Be careful.

The top rap or two descends to the right. Don't get sucked into continually going towards the falls as the stations get worse and worse until the are balanced blocks on a dirt ledge and pins that can be removed by hand. I think at the bigger ledge, like tow from the top, go down and left... seems like thats where we went wrong.

Rock quality and exposure is outstanding, as is the more remote feel and canoe in.

Crux pitch has lots of fixed pins that seemed solid. Straightforward french free for our party w/ smaller c3s or equivalent.

Agree w/ earlier post. Tough slab moves with old bolts.

As for descent, no bolted rap stations (that we found). In fact one was backed up with a yellow c3. Save some daylight for descent and watch your ends (obviously a good idea anyway to get early start for decent temps for last 5.10 slab w/ sunny exposure).

As for the rack you can leave the 4 at home. Doubles of everything up to #3 for us worked fine.

I climbed this back in 2003, and taken as a whole experience, it still sticks in my mind as one the of the best routes I have ever climbed.

I don't remember all of the climb, but here are the standout's:

The crux is size dependent, my fat sausage fingers would need a hammer to get them in the crack, my wife thought it was perfect. Even with fat fingers, I didn't think it was too hard, solid 11a (going off of Yosemite standards)

The great traverse is one of the best pitches in the universe. Very exposed. In my opinion, the highlight of the climb.

Watch the ropes when pulling the raps. Especially the last 3 raps. You are rapping through blocky sections and the end can get caught very easily.

Climb quick, watch for afternoon thunderstorms.

The rock is great, the bolts are marginal, the climbing is fantastic. There are objective dangers (rock fall, catching ropes, thunderstorms, bears), and you are a ways out there. All the things that make a very memorable climb!

If you have a canoe it is by far the best way to approach. Even possible to do this in the dark. The climbing is best technical climbing I have done in the Tetons - perfect rock and nice sustained pitches. We went to the Summit but I would not recommend this as it adds about 30 pitches of easy but tedious free soloing 4th and easy 5th class rock, plus it turns a one day trip into an overnight trip even if you are fairly fast (due to the delays climbing the hard section of the route).

Amazing route! I felt the crux was pretty solid 11/11+, but I have fat fingers and was barely getting half my fingernail in. The traversing pitches are mega 5 stars! Also, the slab at the end is full value. Hard slab climbing (felt 10+/11 to me) on old, rusted, half driven 1/4" star drives. I tried for a while to free it and ultimately decided the potential for a serious fall wasn't worth it (no shame here). I pulled on the bolts and that was even terrifying. They need to be replaced. Seriously great route though.