Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: John Svenson
Page Views: 5,132 total · 52/month
Shared By: gabe hayden on Feb 14, 2016 · Updates
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description Suggest change

Approach: Start at base of south facing buttress on the Main Tower (3rd Tower).

P1: Cross schrund where allowable and climb 5th class to gain 4th class terrain below prominent left facing corner on south buttress.
P2: 4th class terrain to base of left facing corner below headwall.
P3: Climb left facing corner up to left trending ramp/traverse that accesses pillar at base of main headwall. Belay at notch in pillar at the end of the traverse. 10a moves towards top of corner to gain traverse.
P4: 5.8 Short traverse to bottom of pillar below headwall.
P5: Short pitch up 5.10a handcrack in flare to gain top of pillar.
P6: 1st Headwall pitch. Climb obvious 5.8/9 finger cracks from top of pillar to the next ledge.
P7: Climb obvious 5.8/9 hand crack through a small roof, follow slightly left-trending cracks to a large ledge on the left side of the headwall.
P8: Short 5.7 pitch up left facing corner to gain top of headwall and the ridgeline leading to the summit.
Continue climbing approximately 500 ft along ridgeline up 4th and 5th class terrain to summit.

2019 update:

- the first 3 pitches listed above include some simul-climbing and likely pencil out to more than 3 pitches.
- variations of the first 3 pitches are possible at 5.7-5.9, either up the right side of the prow below the south buttress, or starting further lookers right of the prow and traversing easy ground to gain the top of the prow at the traverse to the initial headwall pillar. I consider the original start above the most direct line up the south buttress and as having the best climbing of the start variations.

Descend mountaineer’s route – Follow western ridgeline down to top of prominent gully, rappel gulley or face to skiers left of gully to the triangle snowfield. Descent snowfield to final ledge. Rappel down gully at the lower skier’s left edge of snowfield to the glacier.
Or descend SE ridge
Can't recommend this route strongly enough. Pitches 4-7 are as much fun as can be had at the grade in a beautiful position.

Protection Suggest change

standard alpine rack, climb and descent go clean.

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