Type: Trad, Aid, 1500 ft (455 m)
FA: Unknown 1930’s
Page Views: 4,581 total · 21/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 4, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

As laid out in Tim Toula's guide, this route comes off fairly trivial. In reality, most of it is pretty trivial, but I felt that the crux mantle move was much harder than 5.6 The good news is that it is well protected and you can always yank on something to get through the mantle.

This ascent is somewhat of an exercise in route finding. I will give general description here, but you have to sort of work some of it out as you go. Start by getting into the south bowl on the left side, then work your way up and across ledge systems to gain a ramp on the right side. Climb this ramp (4th or easy 5th class) to more ledges, and work your way up the right side of a big huge fin that sort of splits the bowl. Continue up drainage to a big ledge that cuts back right across the wall. Cross the ledge all the way over and around the corner to get to the one pitch of real climbing. You should be able to spot bolt or pin to identify the pitch once you get over there. A section of 5.6 climbing leads to the crux mantle move next to a bolt. A long sling might be hanging down from the two bolt anchor above to help out.

Once you're at the anchor, it's pretty much hiking to the top from there. The summit of Courthouse is straight up the hill south from the anchor. There's a register you can sign (needs more paper) under a cairn.

After topping out, reverse your steps, make one rap off the two-bolt anchor and then continue reversing back to the parking lot.

Location Suggest change

Located in the big bowl on the south side of Courthouse Butte.

Protection Suggest change

Light rack; a few small cams, quickdraws, slings.

Photos

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