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Broken Rock
Routes Sorted
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Crack Up 
Fit for Life 
Momentum Operator 
Muad'Dib 
Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer 
South Beach 
White Trash 

South Beach 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand, Moe Hershoff and Ron Olsen, Dec 2, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 641
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jan 1, 2006
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Greg cranking the pumpy moves by the third bolt.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start left of "Fit for Life". Climb a hanging block. Reach a left-facing flake and climb that to a small ledge. Go left and then up crack/arete to the anchor. Coool route that should clean up with more ascents.


Protection 

Six clips and some small cams will get you to a two-bolt anchor.



Photos of South Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Bob working up the crack left of the fifth bolt.
Bob working up the crack left of the fifth bolt.
South Beach.  Power up and left on good holds and climb a short finger crack (crux).  Continue up to an overhang, then move left and climb a crack and slab to the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: South Beach. Power up and left on good holds and ...
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By D. Shaw
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13

As for all these sport routes, crumbly rock in need of cleaning. This one is not 10-. 10b at least. Worth doing.