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Queen Anne's Head
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East Face/Queen Anne's Head 
Gil-O-tine 
South Arete 
Stranger, The 

South Arete 

YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I British: MM 1c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I British: MM 1c [details]
FA: Undocumented (T. Bubb, J. Antin, M. Elges, 1/2013?)
New Route: Yes
Season: Autumn/Winter
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 23, 2013
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Mike Elges & Tony Bubb on the South Arete.
  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Go left and down on the Southern slab of Queen Anne's Head, perhaps 100' down from the standard East Face Route. Arrive at almost to the lowest point of this and step on to the rock and left up to the arete, avoiding some dirty rock and detritus at the very bottom of the South Arete. Climb the slab and arete on the right side to the top of a ridge and continue on that for a ways. Near the top of that ridge, one must step down into and across a 20' deep chimney (which taken through the rock leads to a series of slabs on the back side) or climb down on the East face and below it to avoid it, and then back up and right (North) to the intersection with the Standard East Face Route.

    From the chimney or intersection one can work down to some slabs on the back side and scramble down and South on the ramps to a 'junky section' with a brief (3 meter?) downclimb of perhaps 5.4. This may be the crux of the climb. From there, head South on slabs to see and rejoin the Royal Arch trail whenever possible.


    Location 

    This route lies on the South edge of the South Slab of the Queen Anne's Head. From the established East Face route and the obvious left-facing dihedral of that, head left and down for perhaps 100 feet to the South around a corner and then up a few feet to a secondary slab. Go left and down again almost to the lowest point of this and step on to the route, following the slab to the right of the South Arete to the top, where one can step down into and across a 20' deep chimney (which taken through the rock leads to a series of slabs on the back side) and then back up and right (North) to the intersection with the [Standard East Face Route.

    From the chimney or intersection, one can work down and....


    Protection 

    The route was scrambled and little attention to potential gear placements was made. A standard rack would be presumed to work with minor runouts.



    Photos of South Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Tony & Mike enjoying another beautiful sunrise on the west bench of Queen Anne's Head.
    Tony & Mike enjoying another beautiful sunrise on ...
    Downclimb option from the South Arete of Queen Anne's Head.
    Downclimb option from the South Arete of Queen Ann...
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