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South Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Robert Fisher on May 26, 2010
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Description 

P1: Climb the steep 3" crack for 20' where the angle backs down and the crack widens to 4"-5". Belay just below the obvious crux bulge, or at the flakes about 20' below. 5.8

p2: Climb through the bulge. It's easier than it looks. Climb up the 5.6 3" crack to a small dirt ledge, belay here on gear. 5.9 (crux)

Note: P1 was more difficult than P2.

p3: Scamper up the low-angle slab to the top, using the crack as necessary for pro. 5.4?


Location 

Approach via the steep tree and dirt pitches (5.8, 5.8) of St. Vitus Dance or Calculus Crack. Take the steep trail with fixed line to the left of St Vitus Dance P1. This leads to a 3" crack; the first pitch of South Arete.

Descend by scrambling to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down. There are no bolted anchors on the South Arete. Rappelling would require leaving gear.


Protection 

Single rack to 1", doubles #2-#4 (Camalot sizes)



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By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 25, 2010

This climb deserves more attention than it gets. Mellower than St. Vitus, more actual crack climbing than I remember Calculus having-- especially if you do the new start to Calculus to get to it--and no crowded belays!

link to info about new start to Calculus area:
www.squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?>>>